What’s Happening at Randle Centre?

On the last Sunday of 2024, I hosted an event at the J. Randle Centre in Lagos, a newly opened and appropriately named “Centre for Yorùbá Culture and History.” 

The well-attended event was a screening of Ebrohimie Road: A Museum of Memory, a new documentary film I wrote and directed, which examines the story of Wọlé Ṣóyínká as a young academic at the University of Ìbàdàn in the early sixties, and all the many implications of his stay there — and the house where he lived — on the Nigerian story and the conversation around memory, trauma, and legacy.

The movie was first screened in July 2024, and has travelled around the world, winning three film festival awards, and earning a dozen other official selections and shortlists. It has screened in many important places in Nigeria, including the Alliance Francaise Mike Adénúgà Centre, the Muson Centre, the University of Ìbàdàn, University of Lagos, Korean Cultural Centre Abuja, and many more. We always wanted it to return to The J. Randle Centre particularly because Ṣóyínká had mentioned it as the permanent home to some of his carvings collections which took a central role in the film, and for other personal reasons.

My relationship with the Centre dates back to its early conception — at least as early as 2016 or so — when Ṣeun Odùwọlé, a visionary architect, first showed up at my office at Google to discuss his burning idea for a visually-appealing museum of world status at that location that already held enormous historical significance for Lagos. The space was at the time a pile of debris, walled off from the neigbourhood after the demolition of the earlier structures and the famous swimming pool. Odùwọlé had secured the cooperation of the then administration of Governor Akínwùnmí Aḿbọ̀dé and other international partners to create something much more than a recreation centre: A Yorùbá Centre that would house the heritage of a people, and show a more competent presentation of history than the National Museum across the road belonging to the federal government. 

I was enarmored by the idea, but much more by Odùwọlé’s zeal, vision, and ambition. Not much of any of the promised funds and support had materialized at the time, but the concepts were present on his computer, with images of what the building would look like, and what an experience of visiting the future Centre would look like, combining traditional curatorial practice with modern technology. I shared some of my ideas and promised personal cooperation. I visited for the first time in 2019 to see the construction taking shape. Some photos below from March 2019.

We kept in touch over the years, and as the idea grew. And when a team was put in place to design the curatorial materials for the Centre, I joined more formally, working with scholars across the world like Jacob Olúpọ̀nà, Will Rea, Rowland Abíọ́dún, and dozens of others, to put important ideas about Yorùbá identity in black and white for the future website. The texts would be in English and Yorùbá, with the latter taking a more prominent role. I worked with Odùwọlé to procure rare books and materials for the museum, and led the translation of all relevant texts between languages. While supervising the construction of the site, Ṣeun continued his networking tasks of keeping important partners across the world to their promise. The Lander Stool, for instance, was one of the items he unofficially secured for a permanent loan/return to the museum.

The work on the texts took months of research and editing, and finally the work was done. Even the signage and instructions at the Centre was to be written in both Yorùbá and English, as befitting such an important representation of culture. You can see the result in the architectural design of the screening venue: Yorùbá town names designed and well tone-marked forming a natural frosting on the glass.

And then things went quiet. 

Through the defeat of Governor Aḿbọ̀dé in the 2018 primary of the APC and the emergence of a new governor in the person of Babájídé Sanwóolú, the work at the Randle Centre seemed to have stalled. It was no longer clear if it would proceed at all, or whether the commitment of the state to it would last beyond one administration. Even the idea of the centre as an independent custodian of culture working only with the state as a major partner seemed doomed. Politics, it appeared, had emerged to scuttle what had promised to be a departure from such typical Nigerian malaise.

In the intervening period, the transition between two administrations seemed to also lead to a transition for Odùwọlé, who had conceived and brought the idea to life through grit, hard work, and what I know to be an individual obsession. Such that when the Centre officially opened in 2024 finally, after having stayed locked for two years since its commissioning by the Head of State Buhari, the vision that brought the project to life was conspicuously missing. The website that had been created and curated with enormous research efforts had been allowed to lapse, and the only thing left was a building structure which, though still impressive in its design, content, and presentation, continued to need more intentional curatorial and intellectual handling.

With embarrassing events like this recent ‘invasion’ of the property by the state’s Commissioner of Culture confronting the centre’s appointed CEO for some inscrutable lack of deference [later explained as the establishment of an unauthorized business on the premises], it’s obvious that The J. Randle Centre needs proper intervention to make it live up to its founding ideals if it were to survive. There are sufficient examples of projects with ambitious goals like this failing because of a lack of proper structure and management system. And there are projects with far smaller budgets across the world which have been used to great success as generators of revenue and celebration of national heritage.

The architect Ṣeun Odùwọlé (R) in March 2019, showing guests around his work.

In this case, it is important for the Lagos State Government to provide answers to a number of important questions now arising:

  1. Whether the J. Randle Centre is a private event centre or a public one. Whether the state intends to continue to run it directly (through the commissioner) or via proxy. Which is more efficient, and why?
  2. How much the state is currently running the Centre with, and to which directions — including whether the state investment is bringing sufficient returns.
  3. Into which pocket the monies paid by visitors to use and visit the centre go, and how are they accounted for?
  4. Why a fully-transparent management board hasn’t been convened through which the Commisioner and members of the public can get answers to any questions they have without resorting to such a public spectacle as we saw today.
  5. When the original website and its important supplementary content will be brought back, so that the Centre isn’t just a space for Instagram reels but a true institution of learning and cultural engagement as the architects envisioned it.

Smarter people than me continue to add important points to the conversation via twitter. You can see them here, here and here. There seems to be a consensus that a more formal professional management board is sorely needed, and urgently, so as to elevate the place beyond another failed government edifice many of which already litter the land. In 2025, we need not continue to fall victim to “the Nigerian factor” in the area of arts and public engagement. We have seen how it’s done elsewhere — and they don’t have two heads. A better way forward is certainly needed.

EBH Reading in Lagos

On November 8, 2019, we had a reading from Edwardsville by Heart at Angels & Muse in Lagos. The book reading and conversation was anchored by Nigerian poet Precious Arinze.

The BookArtCentre at Angels & Muse is its events centre which has hosted a couple of art and book events, readings, and workshops, in the past.

The reading also featured poetry by performance poet Chika Jones, folk musician Ẹ̀dáọ̀tọ̀, and Afro-Pop star Jinmi of Lagos. Here are some photos from the event.

The book can be obtained in Nigeria via Ouida Books, Terra Kulture in Lagos, Roving Heights online, and TheBookDealerNg in Ibàdàn. You can also get it on Amazon UK or Amazon US.

Leaving Lagos

by S.I Ohumu 

 

I came here on the shoulders of many, great, expectations. It was the glow-up. Smart Benin girl who never fit in with a talent in the arts must move to the big city. But you lose when you do things that are expected of you.

I should have learnt this lesson from my experience juggling being in my first year of university and last year of secondary school, simultaneously, to give my parents bragging rights, though I didn’t. Or I forgot to. So I moved.

Now I am moving again.

I am leaving Lagos. It is lonely. Alone with 20 million hurrying bodies. Inside of a room, a flat, with persons you know in their own rooms, their own flats, the great distance caused by traffic jams enough to keep you apart. Alone with yourself so you run to whoever you can be with, taking the shit, grateful for a body to see, touch, talk, fuck.

I am leaving Lagos because it is noisy here . And in my head. There is too much. Of everything. Too much hurrying. Too much worry. Too much of cars. Too much of agents. Too much of no friends. Too much of want. Too much of the feeling of keeping up but falling short. There is not enough of anything. Not enough of actual air. Of space. Of quiet. Not nearly enough of peace and joy. Freedom to take flight. There is not enough freedom in Lagos. Not enough of the things which make us truly much. Solid hefty things. Lagos is noise and too much and not enough. It is a shiririrrrrr. It is many stones joined together, haphazard, with no weight. Nothing at the middle.

***

It is my last weekend in Lagos and I have come to move my things. For months I have been afraid to be back here. I left on a bad note. I didn’t finish a manuscript I was editing. I didn’t say goodbye at my job. I told the people at my house nothing. I wrote that deeply flawed essay. I absolutely do not want to be back here.

But fear will always be there. So I do what I am slowly learning to do: allow myself somethings, hold back others. I do not confront former work or abandoned manuscript. Not yet. I stay with Ayọ̀ at Ìyànà Ìpájà. On Sunday night I have wine with a married man–bad tasting white wine–while sitting beside a pool in Lekki, and talk to him for hours, until it is too late to go home. And because I don’t want us to get a room, I say, ‘to the beach’!

We walk. I think I belong to the water. He says everybody thinks that when faced with the sea. There is a line of rock I am unwilling to walk. We look at sex workers. At how the wind makes their cigarette fire fly. Sit on a log. He touches my butt. We sleep in his car. The next day, I’m sick with fever. Can mosquitoes live in saltwater?

On Tuesday I uninstall Uber and Taxify. Forget Rele. My heart holds on to Freedom Park.

***

Hearing Edo being spoken became a balm. A balm given to a bus conductor at agege. A smile returned to boy with blue glasses at Cafe Neo. A celebration of familiarity. Everything else was the other.

***

I am leaving Lagos because I am happy now. I have cleaned the room in my head. Put the hangers in the wardrobe, the broom in its place. I am able to wake up every morning. Go to sleep without crying. Look at trees, touch the sky, love a man who loves me back. I am able finally to be accountable. To understand action, reaction, consequence. Interested in navigating the fragile maze of growing up while retaining my childlike wonder. Realizing clichés come from good places. I am able to think good. Solid. I am leaving Lagos because only the solid can fly. You are fraught and froth and secured to the dirt floor in a city with everything but what is required.

I am leaving Lagos because it is not for me. It is this simple. Do not speak in absolutes. No city is the sunken place. This one is magic to many others. Now the question: But is that you? Are you here because you want to be or you think you ought to want to be? Because you need to be here? Sync like a mac to an iPhone to this rollercoaster of a coastal city? When last did you let yourself rhyme?

I want to rhyme. I want to go home. I only know home is home by having been in a place that isn’t home. I am leaving Lagos because it isn’t home.

Lagos isn’t home. Not to me. Is it to you?

N.B: To the ones not squares, wearing boots at ring road, counting down until the big move, why are you leaving? Your family doesn’t feel like family? To find your tribe? Opportunities? Your difference does not mean you must live in Lagos. Granted it’s a hub but is it the only? Should it be? The country big. Ask Fuád, e big. If you want to create, bad air fast bus quick fingers frothy people fun hangouts may be the way. Trees, slow paced, quiet may also be the answer. I am not saying do not go, only consider. Place it side by side another. It is not a given. Sometimes the way to start anew is to stay. Sometimes it is to go.

Go home. But first, find it. Wherever that is.

_____

S.I Ohumu is a mostly happy twenty-two-year-old living where art, food, and environmental sustainability meet.

 

Meeting Zuckerberg

Not personally (though that would have been nice).TemieZuck

The CEO of Facebook dropped by Lagos, Nigeria yesterday – his first visit to the continent – to visit with the tech community and see for himself what they’re (we’re) doing. He also stopped by places where his foundation has invested millions of dollars, e.g. Andela. Read more here on QZ.

What I’m most pleased by, though (along with the usual delight at his interest in the growing tech space in Nigeria where a number of amazing things are happening every day by young people working very hard with very little) is the fact that he met Temie Giwa whom I’ve talked about on this site countless times – she’s someone whose company LifeBank is doing a lot of good things in the technology space, using a mobile app to connect hospitals and patients to sources of clean and affordable blood supply at record time, thus saving hundreds of lives around Lagos.

What she’s doing hasn’t happened in Nigeria before. Hospitals usually had to physically go around looking for matching blood, usually during emergencies. This has led to many problems, failed matches, and dying patients. The intervention of LifeBank comes to provide not only matching blood types with patients who need it, but also delivering said blood (which has been tested by the lab and by the state government) in record time, and in good condition, to the hospital 24/7. This is poised to change the way healthcare delivery happens in Africa’s most populous country.

Temie talks about the meeting here.

temieMarkGetting investment from a person of Zuckerberg’s stature in such a startup will be revolutionary for the speed and expansion of LifeBank’s work – and I hope that he considers doing that. Getting it from anyone actually will. The possibility of such eventuality has now hopefully risen with such a public validation, and that’s delightful news. Also delightful is the reality of a dawning future in which technology is being adapted to different field in order to deliver outstanding results. This is the future. Nigeria, now officially in a recession, is certainly in need of such not-so-divine intervention.

This is what Mark has to say about LifeBank (around the 8.30 minute mark in this video):

“If everyone had the opportunity to build something like this, then the world would be a better place… I’ve been to a lot of different cities… people around the world are trying to build stuff like that. If she actually pulls it off, then she’d show a model that will impact not just Lagos, not just Nigeria, but countries all around the world.”

During his live town hall meeting referenced above with developers and entrepreneurs, Mr. Zuckerberg referenced a quote which he said guides much of his work: “The best way to predict the future is to build it.” From the amount of great changes now taking place around the country and around the world fueled by the power of imagination and the tools of technology, it’s hard not to wholeheartedly agree.

Lagos, Rain

IMG_1707 IMG_1709 IMG_1713 IMG_1716 IMG_1717 IMG_1719 IMG_1721 IMG_1725 IMG_1726 IMG_1728 IMG_1730 IMG_1732A few caveats, which may or may not be necessary:

1. This is not all of Lagos. This is a result of an indulgent ride from Ikoyi to Lekki are of the state (some would say the better side of the state).

2. This isn’t the only face of Lagos during rainfall. It’s not even close. But the success of the public-private partnership that gave us the Lekki-Epe Expressway ensures that as long as the passenger stays on this highway, he/she would never witness the ugliness that is the innards of the city gutters during rainfall.

3. This aims to be as much about the blogger’s photographic experiments as with the fascination with the city itself, although, as he has often admitted to himself, the city holds much more in treasure for the curious traveler than one can immediately tell from a cursory look.

Enjoy.