Browsing the archives for the Observations category.

Harmattan in the City

It’s the tenth of December in Lagos, and the cool dry wind of the year’s end is descending one day at a time. It’s not winter – not anyway close to the overwhelming cold of other climes – but calming. Close enough to Fall, except for the green that remains on the trees. If, like a number of residents here, you are going to make long trips to other parts of the country, the weather gives enough incentives for the start of packing for such a trip. Ibadan is about 120 km away from here, but longer if the length of journeys counts for the dilapidation of roads or the trepidation at putting one’s life at the risk of such terrible human trap.

I have just watched the memorial for Nelson Mandela, where the US’s first black president gave a fitting tribute in the presence of an adoring throng. It was perfect, I thought. A black man, the son of this soil, just a few thousand miles north-eastwards carrying the banner of the world to honour another first black president who had fought a different battle, not just of the flesh, but of the mind – and won. An exchange that will surely raise a few dusts on US cable news all day today is a picture of the President Obama handshaking the president of Cuba who had also come to pay homage. Not in any way strange for the US counterpart who – a few months after his inauguration – was caught shaking the hands of the guards at the Buckingham Palace in London, it celebrates the larger significance of Mandela’s life and death: to bring peace and reconciliation to the world.

2013 feels like a memory. It hasn’t yet become history, but the cyclical weight of its presence singes like the dry wind about one’s ears. So much in one place, and the pleasure of removal. It’s not hibernation per se. Just a protective shield from both progress and stagnation. We lost Achebe, now Madiba. A couple of years more and many more heroes would be gone. The world is twisting on its axes, as it always does, and new heroes born. I look forward to next year and its many surprises, some known and some not. The pleasures of such discoveries might be yet another reason for gratefulness, at least for the present.

Syria on My Mind

Nerve gases are no laughing matter
as hundreds of shrouds tell, in pictures,
removed from this world where allegiances
lay in voting colours and voting districts.

Another brown spot on the world map
spills around the palette of our apathy.
Thousands today and another, and more,
But history tosses us in fracas of wonder.

So, a click on the remote, and it’s gone,
shrieks of pain, and wailing siblings, countrymen.
A tab takes the blood of our screens
into another page with a dancing Miley.

The dead fare no better, though punctured
in lace around the flesh: hollow-point lead.
War is peace, until the air sours on the breath.
Decision hangs the wise on a noose with idiocy.

We are here again, a decade-long sobriety
in the same pit, different boots, and piety.

 

Driving in Lagos

One of the most problematic obstacles to driving anywhere in Nigeria is the process of obtaining a driver’s license. Living in Lagos adds an additional layer of having to compete with one of about two million motorists that have to get the new driver’s license being mandated by the Federal Road Safety Commission. From the response I’ve got from those who have applied for this new license, it takes from three months to seven to finally lay hands on the official card. (As some consolation, however, drivers are given a temporary form, also called the permit, with which to drive until the seven months – or whatever length of time one is given – is complete). Oh, the length of time to get said card is also dependent on whom one knows, and how much one has!

It’s hard to talk about this without the inevitable comparison to other places where the highest it takes from the time one passes the road driving test to getting the official certified card is about fifteen minutes, tops! But that now out of the way, it’s important to ask what exactly is the problem with decentralization of card issuance, and government employing more (adhoc?) staff for summer jobs to take care of the backlog? And if the government can’t handle it, what is wrong with outsourcing it to a monitored private enterprise?

I have noted down a few other (less depressing) observations about discovering roads and routes on Lagos roads, but they will come with subsequent blogposts. For now, it’s enough to rail at a government, in 2013, that is still too reluctant to move into the electronic century.

Fledgling Whispers of a Story – A Review

This week, I discuss my thoughts on Abubakar Adam Ibrahim’s Whispering Trees, the fourth story on the shortlist of the 2013 Caine Prize for African Writing. Many other bloggers are participating in what Aaron Bady spearheaded as a “Blog Carnival”: thoughts and opinions on each of the shortlisted stories. Find the rest of the reviews on twitter via the hashtag #CainePrize.

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Of all the stories I have read since this Caine Prize carnival began, Whispering Trees is one I have read twice fully, from beginning to end. It is a story about Salim, a young man who became disabled, and lost his eyesight, in a car accident and along with it his dignity and prospects, and who eventually finds a different kind of vision staring at “souls” of people, and seeing visions.

I read the story twice not because I particularly enjoyed and understood it all the first time, but because I didn’t fully grasp it and wanted to be sure about the intentions of the author and the character. Many of my thoughts from the first reading were confirmed by a second reading: it is a story about coping with disability, but a little also about faith, and psychic and supernatural outer body experiences, and love. The author doesn’t succeed in developing each of these areas, but we see that it was his intention that we see them. Away from the second reading, I realized that there were no hidden meanings other than the fact of the hero’s disabilities and eventual psychic evolution. It tried very hard to be didactic, but failed at that too. The last line, italicized for effect, read “I realize that happiness lies, not in getting what you want, but in wanting what you have.” I certainly had not come to that conclusion merely by reading the story, and including it as the last line did not drive it in either.

I could be uncharitable and say that Whispering Trees could have borrowed a leaf from the handling of the crises of faith and disability from reading Tope Folarin’s Miracle, or that it could have portrayed the homeliness of young hapless men under a tree deliberately named by reading Elnathan John’s Bayan Layi. Heck, it could have done better with romance under pressure by reading Pede Hollist’s Foreign Aid, but that would be assuming that the author wrote the story with the Caine Prize in mind, only after reading these other stories. It is most certainly not the case, so I will only say that whatever moved the author to write this story could most certainly have been better served by a shorter and smarter handling of the plot. There are many issues that can be raised from this story about of the helplessness of disabled people in Nigeria, particularly those wounded as a result of man-made disasters like car accidents. There are also angles of societal neglect and the non-existence of public facilities to make the life of disabled folks much easier. These however are from my own mining of the story’s schizzy fields. The author doesn’t consciously lead me to them.

The part of the story detailing the problems of disability were affecting, but seemed artificial and forced, helped by the tortured use of some figures of speech. The most uncharitable word for these instances of use is “amateurish”, providing a major obstacle to enjoying the story. Here are a few:

Personifications:

Sometimes it worked beautifully: “I remained there until my anger forced tears out of my damaged eyes”, but most times it didn’t: “Silence answered me.”, “Insomnia would claim me every night”, “My mind climbed up to the gates of heaven once more, seeking admittance”, “She would talk and weep until blessed sleep stole her away”, “I heard the trees screaming in agony as they were cut down”, and “But my mind was not very happy about this.” Nobody should ever write like that.

Similes:

There were some passable lines: “Her tears, like rain, fell on the wild fire of anger raging in my heart and extinguished it.” Others were not: “I discovered a whole new world of numbers and was as excited as Columbus must have been when he stumbled upon America” and “She pranced in front of the house calling for Saratu just like Achilles before the walls of Troy.”

Hyperbole:

In describing a rash and angry response of an otherwise reasonable citizen, the following was written: “Faulata fetched some petrol and poured it on the house. She was about to set it ablaze when they seized her. She struggled fiercely and wept because they would not let her burn down the house. Later, Saratu’s parents came to apologise. Neither Faulata nor I said a word to them. Then the elders came and delivered a long, boring lecture about forgiveness and reconciliation and, to get rid of them, I said it was over. So Saratu kept her distance.” The attempted arson described here could as well be the most hurried description I’ve ever read. I am trying to see how Faulata could have poured petrol on the house. The event to which Faulata was responding by trying to set a fire ablaze didn’t also seem to warrant this kind of response either, so I chalked it down as a failed hyperbole regarding plot.

In another part of the story, a character makes an attempt at quoting Oscar Wilde. The original poem, from The Ballad of Reading Gaol, reads:

Yet each man kills the thing he loves
By each let this be heard.
Some do it with a bitter look,
Some with a flattering word.
The coward does it with a kiss,
The brave man with a sword!

In Ibrahim’s story, there was the following:

Hamza and I talked some more until he rose and said, “I must leave now. Now that you are here, I can leave. But see how beautiful this place is, see how pure and full of life it is. Yet, someday, the living will come and destroy everything.” He started off, “Man destroys that which he claims to love.”

In another instance, the author tries to write in Nigerian Pidgin English, yet gave us the following:

The oga’s voice was raucous. “How much you find for ’im body?”

The first man said, “Four thousand naira, sir.”

The oga grumbled, “These ones se’f, them no carry plenty money. Oya, put ‘im body with the others but hide the money before people come.”

Yes, that was ‘im body, se’f, and other unconvincing attempts at Nigerian Pidgin. In pidgin, there would be no apostrophe in any of those words, and “body” would surely have been written as bodi.

I realize then why I found the story hard to enjoy as fiction, or anything other than the writer’s attempt to be profound and didactic with magical realism: it tried too hard, with little skill, and failed (at least as a worthy representative of this year’s shortlist of the best of African fiction. As some have wondered aloud: “thank goodness we won’t have to read the other ninety non-shortlisted pieces!”).

Now, so that this does not end up as a completely disappointed rant against something that Mr. Ibrahim surely put a lot of effort into writing, let me admit that I found the first sentence quite charming and inviting: “It’s strange how things are on the other side of death.” Had the promise of that initial sentence been followed by equally strong and well sustained passages, and had the story been a lot shorter, or at least the characters better developed, we might have had a different offering.

The other paragraph that I found absolutely delightful is as follows:

“The rains came and went. The grasses grew lush green and faded into a pale, hungry brown. I could hear the dry, cold harmattan winds blowing through the starved savannah; I could feel it on my desiccated skin. The weather grew unpleasantly chilly. Everything was cold, including my heart. Faulata was gone”

Unfortunately, gems like this were far in-between, and did not tie the story together as a tale of resurrection, redemption, and a soulful realization of an inner strength and power as the author clearly intended the story to be.

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Also published on the NT LitMag

Amusing the Muse

Fullscreen capture 672013 111018 AM.bmpFullscreen capture 672013 110748 AM.bmpFullscreen capture 672013 110824 AM.bmpFullscreen capture 672013 110929 AM.bmp Fullscreen capture 672013 111831 AM.bmp Fullscreen capture 672013 112457 AM.bmp Fullscreen capture 672013 112547 AM.bmp Fullscreen capture 672013 112631 AM.bmp Fullscreen capture 672013 112722 AM.bmpHere are photos taken at the exhibition of photos and paintings by Nigerian artist Victor Ehikhamenor.

The exhibition, titled Amusing the Muse, took place between April 27 and May 31, 2013, at Temple Muse, 21 Amodu Tijani street, Off Sanusi Fafunwa, Victoria Island, Lagos.

The artworks beautifully arranged around the premises of the  Temple Muse (which is also an events shop, bookstore, and a fashion & lifestyle showroom), were given names like “I don’t know where to but let’s go”,  “To all the first ladies who love themselves”,  “Coup plotter before shower”, “Your head is correct”, “Home sweet home”, “Mr president after the coup”, “Adam and Eve waiting for a flight out of Eden”, “Your dancing is music inside my head”, “Yesterday and today waiting for tomorrow.”, “Your music is dancing inside my head”, “Nobody came to us”, and “Opportunities in the land of closed doors”.

Of form, the work varied from “Charcoal on canvass” to “Paintforation on handmade paper”, “Charcoal and oil pastel on canvas”, “Ink wash and acrylic on paper”, “Latex paint and charcoal on handmade paper”, and “Acrylic on wood and fabric”.

My interview with Victor has just been published at NigeriansTalk.