Visiting Ikogosi

SAM_2194Ikogosi Ekiti is the home of the nation’s only and most famous warm springs, situated on the hills in Ikogosi Ekiti in Ekiti State of Nigeria. The spring itself originates from the top of a rock formation now situated in what the state government calls the Ikogosi Warm Spring Resort. It is a stretch of land fenced and developed with lodgings, entertainment, halls for events, an amphitheatre, and a beautiful view of nature and the famous spring itself. (It never used to be like this, we’re told. The new government has been working).

I had gone visiting, along with my wife, as a guest of the Future Awards Project who had organized a nationwide gathering of Nigerian youths (described as those between 18 and 35) to brainstorm on the nature of their participation in government and in the shaping of their future. She was a panelist on one of the sessions.  The three-day symposium that was well attended by young people from all around Ekiti and Lagos (with a few more jetting in from as far away as Kano) had as invited guests former Vice-President of the World Bank (and current Finance Minister) Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala, governors of Ekiti State (the host, Dr. Kayode Fayemi), Rivers (Rotimi Amechi, who already made news with some of his comments), and a representative of the governor of Delta State. There was also Professor Pat Utomi (one-time presidential aspirant), Tonye Cole, Odia Ofiemun (past president of the Association of Nigerian Authors), and many others in government and in business.

SAM_2104The symposium turned out a lot of ideas, and bile, and fun, and anger. Peculiar to a gathering of young people, it brimmed with idealism, and questions, and challenges for the present and for the future. I enjoyed it all, the interaction, the camaraderie, the environment, and the food. (I’d never eaten so much yam in three days). The resort was also a fantastic discovery, a treasure hiding in the hills of a faraway city. The cottage we slept in sat on top of the hill, overlooking the source of the warm spring down below. About half of the new lodgings are just recently built while the rest were renovated from their previous deteriorating states. They had been built a long time ago.

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Speaking of architecture, one thought that occupied my mind throughout the event (and which I had so desperately tried to ask the host governor of Ekiti State, without success), was why in this 21st century Nigeria, public facilities like this resort built with state money should not have adequate access for disabled citizens. One of the participants, a young dignified lady on a wheelchair, had to be lifted into the venue over a flight of stairs because of the absence of any other means. It is a terrible, disappointing oversight. (This is not peculiar to Ekiti, however, but it deserves to be part of the conversation going forward).

There were also a number of prominent youth leaders of thought and young professionals around the country present, from IT professional Gbenga Sesan to activist/politician Japhet Omojuwa. Needless to say, I was meeting many of these folks for the very first time. A few of them, I was hearing about for the first time as well. The organizers of the program include the EIE (Enough is Enough) Nigeria group who came into limelight after a successful walk on Abuja in March 2010 to protest the state of things in Nigeria. I blogged about that here. By the end of the third day, I had made new friends, met a few old ones, and connected with those I’d known on twitter, but never met in person. It was a warm, happy – if short – respite to the quotidian rote of the Lagos life.

SAM_2207I returned to Lagos through the same hills that led us to Ikogosi, seven hours later, through the many Ekitis, Ilesha, Ikire, and Ibadan. It was my first time of visiting that part of Ekiti. An accidental admission to one of the young men seated beside me at the newly furnished swimming pool and bar on Saturday night that my immediate ancestors had migrated to Ibadan from Ekiti a few generations ago, and that my father was an Ekiti title-holding chief, has now landed me in hot water of a constant barrage of request to pack my bags away from Lagos as soon as possible, and come back “home”. After all, “a river that forgets its source is in danger of eventual, inevitable drying up.” It’s true.

It was an apt metaphor anyway, since he had said it while we were sitting just a few metres away from the source of the spring that gave the town, and the state, one of its enduring prestigious images.

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More on the Future Project here.

South to North Notes

The railway track from Lagos reaches Ibadan, Abeokuta and then head up north towards Zaria, Jos and Maiduguri, and the very first proposals on this trip was to have gone via railway. How nice that could have been, except that it would have taken days if not weeks to commute between even almost neighbouring towns. At least, it could have been a good chance to see more of the countryside as one ascends up the country.

So here I am in Ilorin, a sorta border town between the North and the South. But don’t take my word for it. Most residents of this town know for sure that politically and geographically, Ilorin belongs to the North. There is a very long and bloody history behind this conclusion. Don’t ask me. One thing for sure is that everyone here speaks Yoruba, and perhaps Hausa as well, among other languages. The state’s motto is “The Land of Harmony”, perhaps a play on the diversity it embodies.

The towns of Ekiti that lay in-between the journey from Ile-Ife to Ilorin are interspersed between rocks and hills. It is also a land of diverse tongues. The Akoko area of Ondo and Ekiti States is one of the most linguistically diverse places in Nigeria. Many of the languages there are endangered or under some sort of threat from globalization, and the influence of Yoruba, thus the influx of linguists from all over the world to study and document those languages. I have worked with at least three of such linguists, doing fieldworks in villages in the Akoko Area, some from the School of Oriental and African Studies, in the UK, and a few from SIUE itself. Has anyone heard of a language called Ayere or Uwu?

So, Kaduna is the ideal next stop, and it is six hours away from here by car. That is not the problem however. The problem is where I intend to sleep when I get there. This, of course, could also be the most exciting part of the trip. Now imagine me in jeans and a ktravula t-shirt, with a backpack and dark specs walking up to the gate of the government house and requesting to meet with the Governor in person. “Yes sir. I am a Nigerian Fulbrighter from the United States on a short trip around my country. I need a place to lay my head just for a few days while I check out your state and I have come to you, being the chief executive of the state. I’m all yours. What say you?”

Now, that would be an adventure.

The Many Ekitis

On the way from the town of Ikare to the town of Ilorin are very many Ekiti towns. Here are just the few of them: Omuo, Ilasa, Odo Ayedun, Esun, Ikole, Osun, Itapa, Ilupeju. Oye, Ifaki, Ayede, Imojo, Oloje, Ilafon, Isan, Iludun, Obada, Iye, Ijesamodu, Ikun, Otun, and Ado Ekiti, the capital. I remember also Igbara-Oke, Igbara-Odo, Ilawe, Igede, Aramoko, Ijero, Ire, Ikere, among others from my childhood travels. How many more do you know?

I just found out that there is another Ekiti town within Kwara State. Just how many Ekitis are out there anyway?