Browsing the archives for the Observations category.

Visiting Ikogosi

SAM_2194Ikogosi Ekiti is the home of the nation’s only and most famous warm springs, situated on the hills in Ikogosi Ekiti in Ekiti State of Nigeria. The spring itself originates from the top of a rock formation now situated in what the state government calls the Ikogosi Warm Spring Resort. It is a stretch of land fenced and developed with lodgings, entertainment, halls for events, an amphitheatre, and a beautiful view of nature and the famous spring itself. (It never used to be like this, we’re told. The new government has been working).

I had gone visiting, along with my wife, as a guest of the Future Awards Project who had organized a nationwide gathering of Nigerian youths (described as those between 18 and 35) to brainstorm on the nature of their participation in government and in the shaping of their future. She was a panelist on one of the sessions.  The three-day symposium that was well attended by young people from all around Ekiti and Lagos (with a few more jetting in from as far away as Kano) had as invited guests former Vice-President of the World Bank (and current Finance Minister) Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala, governors of Ekiti State (the host, Dr. Kayode Fayemi), Rivers (Rotimi Amechi, who already made news with some of his comments), and a representative of the governor of Delta State. There was also Professor Pat Utomi (one-time presidential aspirant), Tonye Cole, Odia Ofiemun (past president of the Association of Nigerian Authors), and many others in government and in business.

SAM_2104The symposium turned out a lot of ideas, and bile, and fun, and anger. Peculiar to a gathering of young people, it brimmed with idealism, and questions, and challenges for the present and for the future. I enjoyed it all, the interaction, the camaraderie, the environment, and the food. (I’d never eaten so much yam in three days). The resort was also a fantastic discovery, a treasure hiding in the hills of a faraway city. The cottage we slept in sat on top of the hill, overlooking the source of the warm spring down below. About half of the new lodgings are just recently built while the rest were renovated from their previous deteriorating states. They had been built a long time ago.

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Speaking of architecture, one thought that occupied my mind throughout the event (and which I had so desperately tried to ask the host governor of Ekiti State, without success), was why in this 21st century Nigeria, public facilities like this resort built with state money should not have adequate access for disabled citizens. One of the participants, a young dignified lady on a wheelchair, had to be lifted into the venue over a flight of stairs because of the absence of any other means. It is a terrible, disappointing oversight. (This is not peculiar to Ekiti, however, but it deserves to be part of the conversation going forward).

There were also a number of prominent youth leaders of thought and young professionals around the country present, from IT professional Gbenga Sesan to activist/politician Japhet Omojuwa. Needless to say, I was meeting many of these folks for the very first time. A few of them, I was hearing about for the first time as well. The organizers of the program include the EIE (Enough is Enough) Nigeria group who came into limelight after a successful walk on Abuja in March 2010 to protest the state of things in Nigeria. I blogged about that here. By the end of the third day, I had made new friends, met a few old ones, and connected with those I’d known on twitter, but never met in person. It was a warm, happy – if short – respite to the quotidian rote of the Lagos life.

SAM_2207I returned to Lagos through the same hills that led us to Ikogosi, seven hours later, through the many Ekitis, Ilesha, Ikire, and Ibadan. It was my first time of visiting that part of Ekiti. An accidental admission to one of the young men seated beside me at the newly furnished swimming pool and bar on Saturday night that my immediate ancestors had migrated to Ibadan from Ekiti a few generations ago, and that my father was an Ekiti title-holding chief, has now landed me in hot water of a constant barrage of request to pack my bags away from Lagos as soon as possible, and come back “home”. After all, “a river that forgets its source is in danger of eventual, inevitable drying up.” It’s true.

It was an apt metaphor anyway, since he had said it while we were sitting just a few metres away from the source of the spring that gave the town, and the state, one of its enduring prestigious images.

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More on the Future Project here.

A Week in Ignorance

It surprised one of my co-workers when, during lunch sometime during the week, I’d mentioned that one of my grouses with the Goodluck Jonathan presidency was his condonement of corruption, citing the example of his appointment of a convicted certificate forger onto the board of a university.

“This really happened?” My co-worker asked, unbelieving of something that would otherwise sound like something copied out of a satire written by Wole Soyinka.

“Yes, he did.” I replied, and the conversation went on and on about a few other ills that paints the administration as one of the most permissive of corruption in the history of the nation’s democratic experiments. “He also pardoned Alamayesiegha, among others.”

Why the conversation surprised me a lot was because I had assumed that everyone, like me, was interested in what was going on in government, and thus fully aware of the misgovernance taking place in our name. I am wrong, obviously. Nobody really cares. As long as the routine of our daily lives are not affected in any way by the corrupt dealings of the “top bosses”, we are fine. This is not a typically Nigerian problem, but as I am here, it is one that I have given a lot of thought. A few weeks ago in Ikogosi Ekiti, during the session on what young people can do to get proper representation in power to be able to effect the changes they want, the chairman of the governors’ forum, Rotimi Amaechi, had suggested to the faces of those present that no change would come as long as people sat pretty and gave the leaders a free hand to do whatever they wanted. How else could it be any different now, I thought, when we don’t even know, or care, about what is going on in the first place? A number of young people have twitter and Facebook accounts. But how many are relevant enough to effect change? When next an “Occupy” protest comes on and locks down the streets, preventing people from going to work in order to demand for one change or the other, the very first people to complain that the protests have gone on long enough are going to be these ones who (though are very hardworking and well-meaning citizens) have no idea what the heck anyone of us should be worried about. After all, salaries get paid on time, and the road to and from Lekki are good enough in the morning on the way to work, and during evenings on the way back home.

This is the problem, and I can think of millions more who are merely content to go on with their lives without a worry in the world about anything else.

I don’t have a solution.

It just makes for a rather curious study in citizen revolt and participatory democracy.

The Post I Wanted To Write

download (4)…on President Obama’s historic visit to Israel for the first time in his presidency was going to focus on his peculiar preference on young people as his primary audience and thus a vessel for his message to the rest of the country and the world. It was going to highlight the ingenious characteristic of such address that shuns the insular confines of the Knesset (and old politicians with calcified opinions, ideologies, and voting patterns)  and takes the message directly to the young citizens of the country on whom real change truly rests, and for whom a secure future is something of much significant value than perhaps to those who may not live long enough to see it. (I’m being slightly hyperbolic here, of course, but I hope you get the point.)

Young people are also more idealistic and open to progressive policies which, hopefully, will steer the nation to a more inclusive yet prosperous and secure democracy.

The text of the brilliant, moving speech, is here (via New York Times). Eli Lake of The Daily Beast also has an insightful take on the speech here.

Why Do Accents Change?

I had this discussion a few days ago about the inevitability of accent change, which had given me pause about what I had hitherto dismissed as something inconsequential. My wife, an American from the Midwest, wonders at times why some Nigerians in big cities – particularly those that have never travelled out of the country – always put on an affective foreign accent while in public. She is not alone, there have been countless discussions online and in the media about the importation of American accents into Nigerian spoken English. What irked her the most however, was the change in my accent from one originally Nigerian to one that now a cross between Nigerian and Midwestern American.

fake_accent1As I explained to her from the more pragmatic (rather than the linguist) side of me, this is how it always goes: an educated someone from Africa or anywhere else with a distinctly local English accent arrives in America and is suddenly surprised at the inability of his/her American hosts to understand a single sentence he/she speaks. “Pardon?” “Come again!” “What?” “What did you say?” Even for me who could boast of a fairly regular intelligible diction long before arriving on the shores of the United States, there was a sudden loss as to why it seemed that I had to repeat myself before I was properly understood.

Mind you, this goes beyond localized peculiarities of dialects that makes one call elevators “lifts” or movies “cinemas” or soccer “football”. No. As peculiar as those are, with the right context and intelligible speech, the listener might smile at the quirkiness, but would immediately understand the meaning and intentions. But not when pronunciations are involved. I called “route” as “root” (as any Nigerian, or British, would), pronounced “anti” as “anti” and not “antai”, and “semi” as “semi”.  There were a few more, and if I didn’t know better, I would also have called “model” just as spelt, rather than as “mawdl” as most Americans no doubt would.

nigerian accentsIn other words, my accent was pretty Nigerian/British, or what I called the Lagos/Middle Class Accent (aka the 5th Sexiest Accent in the World), with many other peculiarities I didn’t notice until my students and friends started pointing them out. And then I became conscious. My route gradually became “raut”, my door (which had hitherto sounded as “daw”) started sounding with the “r” conspicuously pronounced. It took three years of socialization which began with my very good friend and classmate asking “You come from Nigeria. How did you learn to speak English this well?”, and ended in my final class presentation where another colleague, this time a female, asked why I speak an English comprehensible to Americans since many of the Nigerians/Africans she had previously interacted with had such a heavy accent. (My response to her, in any case, was that she needed to see how I speak when conversing with other said Africans. I switch again).

It is what it is, where accents are concerned. We tend speak in the fashion most comfortable to us, but most importantly, in a way most relevant to present company and environment. Teaching now in a school in Lagos, I have had to contend with instances where my students found my usage laughable and sometimes worthy of a debate. Until a dictionary surfaced to settle the matter, a smart ass sixteen year old in one of my English classes argued on end that the word “prevalent” should be pronounced with the stress on the second syllable, hence [priVAlent] (as a Nigerian would usually call it) rather than the correct [PREvalent]. I also once spelt pyjamas as “pajamas”, to really disruptive consequences. So when my wife wonders at the now present “r” in my words, she is in tune with current arguments, except to the real-life reasons of the inevitability: habit, social conditioning, and personal preferences/idiosyncracies.

729966315New York (dialect of American) English developed because of the influx and strong influence of Italian culture on the city, while the New England dialect came from the settlement of Protestants from England. Over time, notwithstanding where future immigrants into the city come from, the strong influence of the prevalent, dominating, culture will always keep the dialect around certain recognizable forms. In Lagos today, the accent you hear is – as it should be – a cross between the British-influenced Nigerian accent of English with urban modifications and modern American mannerisms. For denizens who have had the opportunity to travel to either Britain or the US, the influences would be obvious, as it also should be. And for the rest, the influence would rub off to whatever extent permissible.

As I also pointed out to her, while on the phone or when speaking with people she has never met before, the Americanness of her accent is more pronounced than when she’s speaking with me in a more relaxed family environment, where the Nigerianness in both of us is allowed to flourish whenever they can. I am back to “lifts” instead of elevators, “bonnet” rather than hood, “trolley” instead of “cart”, and “waste basket” rather than the American “trash can”, but for now, my door, course, more, tour, and shore have all retained the American “r” which I am reluctant now to relinquish, even at the risk of having to stare at the snobbishly rolling eyes of my darling wife.

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Photos culled from the internet.

Ibadan Memories

In advance of a live twitter interview with the folks at @thinkoyo on my memories and opinion of Ibadan at 8pm (Lagos Time) this evening, let me list a few things I remember from growing up:

A serene quasi-communal neighbourhood in Akobo. A sprawling house in the middle of a bustling neighbourhood, we lived with everyone in the area in mutual respect and love for family. We played ball on the dust fields, played ping-pong at evenings, and did all normal young people did during idle, hot, afternoons. I remember crafting a Christmas firework at some point out of the cap of a motor plug, a small nail, and a piece of wood. You added crumbs of fire powder from the tip of a match, hit it against a wall, and heard the loudest sound you can ever make.

IMG_9696A pretty moderate traffic situation on the city’s many roads. Today, there are more roads (due to increase in population) but the traffic situation on major roads have got far worse. I went back to Akobo a few months ago, and I was shocked at how many people now live there. The distance from IDC to Anifalaje used to disappear in minutes under the small steps of my rubber sandals. Now it looks farther than I remember, and the last time I walked it (just a few months ago), I returned home panting for air. And yet, I may have got a better deal than the people who remained on the road, in their cars – to slightly exaggerate the congestion that the place now faces because of traffic.

Things that have not changed: rickety buses. Many of them are now more beautifully painted in the colours of the state, but the terrible state of the automobiles that provide commercial transport services is heartbreaking. (And maybe that would explain the reason for more private cars). More things that haven’t changed: Orita Bashorun. Slightly changed in outward appearance for reason of season, the basic layout remains the same. The radio/tv complex (where I once worked as a teenage broadcaster) still lay sprawled across the centre, while a tiny shopping “mall” flanks it on the right, and then a few more blocks until we get to the main Bashorun Market itself. None of it seems to have changed. St. Patrick’s church and school are on the other side of the road. At Christmastime, all the premises of the broadcasting corporation becomes a large trade fair grotto for holiday fun lovers.

A few names I remember: Dele Tomori (who eventually went to Osogbo as a radio presenter), Bade Ojuade, Sade Ogedegbe (my producer), Folusho Taiwo, Femi Daniels Obong, or FDO as he used to be called then (now a Lagos sports broadcaster), Sola Kayode, Prof (from a popular tv soap shot at BCOS), Folake Ladiipo, Papa Demmy, DeeJay Big El, DeeJay Freeze, Dapo Aderogba (who died), Dapo Adelugba (from the University), Kola Olawuyi (at Radio Nigeria, before he moved to Lagos), Larinde Akinleye (at the University, and his house in Sango), Lawuyi Ogunniran (a constant presence around the house), Yinka Ayefele (a lanky figure before his first hit album), Subuola Gandhi, Bamiji Ojo (and his crew on that Ombudsman show on Sundays), Yemi Ogunyemi, and a number of others whose names and faces have now become a blur. If I ever get to write a book about what I remember, I must title it Name Droppings.

UPDATE: The interview, storified, is here.