ktravula – a travelogue!

reflections on the world

A Lunch in Jos

It didn’t take me long to locate him at Rayfield where he teaches in a private school. Once upon a time, he was in Riyom, a local government that has now made a name for itself in the spots of unrest around the state. On my way there, there were at least ten military checkpoints along the way so I naturally had a hundred and one questions that I threw at him. We went out and sat down for lunch at a restaurant at the old airport junction.

It all didn’t make too much sense at the beginning, and he didn’t even seem much perturbed by the whole situation.

“Plateau is still the home of peace and tourism.” he said.

“But,” I asked, “Aren’t you concerned by the presence of soldiers and police checkpoints on almost every hundred metres from Hoss to Jos?”

“It’s all politics. It’s not that bad,” he said. “Let me explain it to you.”

“Okay”

“You see, it’s politics. They are bent on painting a picture of unrest in the state for their own benefit.”

“How?”

“You know, recently we hosted the First Lady from Abuja. They knew that if they let her leave without incident, she’ll go with the impression that everything is fine, so they caused some unrest somewhere in Jos, just to make the point that all is not well.”

“And how do they gain from doing so?”

“They gain because their aim is to make the state ungovernable if they won’t have their way. The skirmishes used to be minor, but now they’re attacking prominent people just to create a state of chaos. They know that whenever the name ‘Jos’ is mentioned in the news, people panic, so they have stepped it up. But they won’t win because everyday people still come in here living their lives as usual.”

“I don’t get something,” I said. “I saw the killings in January and March in the news. They weren’t pretty. Why did it get that bad? Jos used to be a serene city.”

“I told you, it is still serene. it’s politics, and they are using the soldiers to perpetuate their acts of violence.”

“No, you don’t mean that.”

“I do. Seriously.”

“But the soldiers are from all around Nigeria. Surely they can’t all be used.”

“You’re naïve. You see the uniform they’re wearing. You should have noticed that it’s different from the one soldiers in this state used to wear. They changed it because there have been cases of the attackers wearing soldier uniforms.”

“Really?”

“At night, some of them give the uniform to the miscreants and they go to the villages and wreak havoc. How else can you explain that there are thousands of soldiers in the state, yet people keep getting killed.”

“This is sad.”

“Even now, with the new uniform, things still haven’t changed. Look at what happened on Saturday.”

“And no one has been arrested?”

“No one. Until they remove the GOC in Jos, things won’t change. They’re all acting a script.”

“The General Officer Commanding? The head of the Armed forces in the whole state?”

“Yes.”

“Oh come on, the military belongs to the federal government and the federal government is no longer controlled by the North. How could that be?”

“Well, the new president hasn’t changed the GOC yet. Until he is replaced, this would keep happening. He has an interest in perpetuating the violence. He is very biased. He’s part of the problem.”

“Alright, I get you, but here is one question. What exactly do they want?”

“They want the chairmanship of Jos North local goverment.”

“That’s it?”

“Yes, and don’t sound like it’s not important. We allowed them to settle down here over years, and now that they have become many, they want the chairmanship of the local government. Heck, they even want to install an Emir. In Jos.”

“Really?”

“Yes. Even to you, how does that sound? ‘The Emir of Jos.’”

“I know that Jos is a mostly Christian place, but isn’t the Emir going to be the head of the moslem community alone?”

“Jos is not an extension of the Emirate. We don’t want an Emir.”

“Now, with violence everywhere, the name of Jos in the news almost every day for the wrong reason, how do you think this will all end?”

“I don’t know, but we don’t want anyone to impose anything on us. Let them just be happy with the position of the deputy speaker which they already have. They have one more position after that in the legislative house. That should be enough.”

I sighed. It is all politics after all.

“I want you to go and tell the world what is happening here. Some people are just bent on destroying the peace, and then they give it a religious colouration.”

“But there is religion involved, like you yourself has admitted.”

“Yes, but it’s politics too. You know this journalist Olatunji Dare, right?”

“Yes. I’ve heard the name.”

“He lost a relative in the March killings.”

“Really?”

“Yes. They have been attacking the Berom villages, but now it seems they’re not attacking everyone just to cause a general state of unrest. We need you to tell the world what’s happening here. We are a peace-loving people. You should know. Look at Rayfield. From here onwards is the GRA. All of Nigeria’s big men have houses here, from Babangida to Abubakar because this is a nice place to live. Why do we need to keep fighting?”

“I wanted to ask you that.”

“ But, like I said, it is not usually as bad as the news says it is,” he said.

I thought that it is, but I felt it best not to point out that obvious fact anymore.

What I took away from the encounter however was the fact that he doesn’t feel any need for pity from anyone, but action from the right quarters, and justice where necessary. And he was right on two points: that the media always jumps on stories that have to do with Jos, and for good reason. With all the reports that have come from there all over the years, there still hasn’t been any lasting solution of peace, and this is sad, for a land that should ordinarily be a model for all other parts of the country. The other truth is that in spite of these now frequent attacks that have painted Jos black in the eyes of the rest of the country, and in spite of the presence of soldiers and police patrol vehicles at strategic points, life in Jos is actually pretty normal without any sense of unease. And life goes on as it always does.

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Jos, Plateau

I entered Jos with some trepidation, but with an open mind, and a five year nostalgia waiting to be assuaged. I also went with an exhilaration reserved for a beautiful place that has gone with me everywhere I went since we first met. When I left the town a few hours later in the evening of Tuesday, I left with some sadness, and a mild confusion as to where the State is headed, and where the crises will lead. On the one hand are ubiquitous police patrols at every hundred metres from Ta Hoss to Makira to Riyom, and on the other hand is a town that still moves as it always does, cheerful, without any hint of danger. Well, welcome to Jos.

Picture #3 is the sign at Kuru which reads: “Nigerian Railway Corporation: The Highest Point in Nigerian Railway. 1318.20 metres or 4324 ft above sea level.

Picture #8 is the famous Riyom rocks that have stood in that delicate design since centuries.

Picture #9 is a carver I saw in Jos, making mortar and pestles with his hand, a chisel and a wooden mallet.

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10 Reasons To Buy KTravulart To Help Jos

10. It is one of Nigeria’s most serene cosmopolitan cities, now facing a humanitarian crises that could as well be called genocide going by motive, and the number of deaths recorded in the last couple of weeks.

9. It is a tourist destination for expatriates living in Nigeria maybe because of its altitude. If there is peace, stability and vitality in Jos, there is peace, stability and vitality for all who visit the place. And it’s a good place to visit if you are ever in Nigeria.

8. It is the site of a very advanced Nok culture and civilization who lived there from around 3000BC and disappeared in the late first millenium.

7. Its National Museum is one of the best in the country, and it boasts of some fine specimens of Nok terracotta heads and artifacts dating from between 500 BC to AD 200. It also incorporates the Museum of Traditional Nigerian Architecture with life-size replicas of a variety of buildings, from the walls of Kano and the Mosque at Zaria to a Tiv village. (Source Wikipedia)

6. The state has over forty ethno-linguistic groups, some of the largest in the country as far as linguistic diversity is concerned.

5. It has the potential to be – as it has always been – one of the best places to live in Nigeria.

4. You will have a beautiful photographic artwork hanging in your living room, signed by KTravula, all the way from the Midwest of the United States.

3. You will have something to show for it beyond the beautiful photograph hanging in your living room: a peace of mind that comes from giving.

2. For Nigerians, you will have done your little part to contribute to the progress of the country Nigeria, without having to occupy a government office, and be sure that your money is making an impact, and not going to a corrupt pocket.

1. I said so. And you love me, don’t you?


PS: That photo above is of the famous Riyom Rocks. It is located in Riyom, the local government in which I spent twelve months in 2005/2006 on the National Youth Service programme. (Picture Source: Paramino.)

PSS: I got an $80 cheque from Clarissa today, as donation to Jos. She had mistakenly addressed it to Access Bank Nigeria instead of to me, but that’s fine. I can’t post the cheque to Nigeria because no Nigerian bank will cash an American cheque. On Monday therefore, I will make her re-write it, address it to me, I’ll cash it and transfer it to the Access Bank Account of the Nigerian Red Cross for Jos Relief or send by Western Union to them, or to someone who will pay it into the Access Bank Account and provide me with proof. It shouldn’t be so hard jare!

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