ktravula – a travelogue!

reflections on the world

Fading Landscapes

Spoke to mother hours ago. Two men from the landscape of my childhood just passed away. One was Pastor, the leader of one of the first churches that shaped my most vulnerable childhood times. He is around sixty years old. The other was Bro Kenny, younger, the director of the youth arm of the other church I belonged to as a teenager. Together with a select group of agile young people who all lived around that area of our youth, Bro Kenny as we called him then, led us through that period of our young restlessness.

Childhood and youth seems to fade away fast enough, and suddenly becomes a lifetime away. Faces from times past come flashing back, with strong energy currents of a familiar place… worshipers in church about three evenings a week, loving life with purest of enthusiasm, young innocent teenagers developing a crush for the very first time for fellow members of the youth group, trial music composers, dancers, proselytizers, picnickers, thespians, and general happy-go-lucky innocent boys and girls growing up within a bible-based yet liberal upbringing. Childhood was a little stricter, with religious instructions that extended beyond the church walls looming around as a constant threat and bulwark against our otherwise footloose rascally tendencies.

Where did all that go, dusty feet all around Akobo where all of this began? The naivete of youth, and the delightful profundity of biblical directions that sought to explain everything away? The simplicity of the day, the sweetness of the rain, the long pleasant smell of the harmattan at Christmas, the noise of little children during church services, the laughter of grown women and the intensity of their prayers up to heaven, the offering baskets and the coins we put in them, the general fervent intensity of youthfulness and mischief – all just floats around the plate of memory. Maybe this is what one death – or two – does: remind of how much was lost. And more importantly, how much more once was.

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Nostalgia – A Not So Old Poem

Do men really feel or just believe? In wandering afterthoughts from your sonic alter-ego,
Love, my belly tickles to a distant bell in childhood paces around our childish lusts.
See me there on the streets of dustland, with heels on the playground of luckless rants.
.
Am I supposed to feel this way again, muse? Your voice spins me to a thousand memories.
I do not stir, nor do the droplets in my eye move beyond their range of steam. No. Muse,
I do not control this softness that drives me across a beaten path towards your taken arms.
.
It is the voice of the night, or else a green-eyed beacon that pushes these fingers to work, and
To stalk: “Traveller, your love has not always been without the crawl of blunt senseless drive.”
It is the delirious dope of distance then, or caprice, or a flighty strong wind of love’s nostalgia.
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A Short History of My Face

I looked in the mirror this evening and found out that I am (now) good looking. This doesn’t happen all the time actually. It is either that I am in a too crappy mood to appreciate what the mirror reflects to me, or the mirror is not clear enough because of water vapour mist or imaginary dents and spots to give me anything substantial. Let’s just say that we had just never agreed in a long while. Today, everything changed. Heck, I even noticed that my moustache and beard are growing more and more. Is it because of the winter? A few months ago, in Nigeria, I could almost count everyone of them. Now, that has become an impossibility. Well, it wasn’t I who tried to do the counting back then… The point of this reference, in any case, is to tell you that sometime this evening, I found myself in front of my bathroom mirror and I noticed a few old and new things about my now good-looking winter-adapting still boyishly hirsute face.

A more memorable thing I noticed on my face today however was a lone horizontal mark on the right side of my face. It used to be a scar and it has been there since I was seven, or eight – I no longer remember, but I remember the incident that brought it up there. How could I forget it? It’s a long personal story, but it can be summarized in the following words: an otherwise crazy curious experiment in local science. Earlier in one lone week out of the now many blurry ones in my childhood memory, my father had unknowingly satisfied too much of my recurring curiosity by telling me how he got the tribal marks on his own face. He was born in the early forties when it was still acceptable and admirable for parents from his side of Yorubaland to scarify the faces of their children as markers of culture, tribe, social standing or just plain beauty. Well, beauty as decided by the eyes of the beholder! I had looked at his face that evening, perhaps even touched his hirsute cheeks too, and found the three pairs of horizontal marks there quite fascinating. How in the world, I wondered, could those scars made by a fiery knife of the professional traditional scarifier remain on the face of his victim for that length of time? I had not the slightest idea, and I asked him.

In those days, he said, the men who made the marks had a secret black paste/potion which they applied to the wound on the baby’s face while it was still fresh, to make the wound heal, and to make the marks truly stand out when it eventually healed. It was the effect of the dark paste/potion, he said, that ensured that the wounds never returned to the same nice state as the other parts of the bearer’s face. Thus explained the deep permanent marks on the faces of the very many grown people of his generation that I had met until then. For days after I discovered this secret, I remained in utmost sleepless fascination, not just about the level of pain it must cause the newborn who must endure the ordeal, the cruelty of the adults who must hold them down at just a few months old to get them scarified for the rest of their lives in the hands of a trusted man with a knife, nor about the resentment the children must feel when they grow up and decide that they never liked those marks on their faces in the first place, but about the possibilities of putting to test the newly gained knowledge I had obtained. I believed my father, but I wanted to see it for myself how it worked. I expressed my thoughts aloud and he asked in a very mischievous and to me quite unsettling jest whether I would prefer him to call the local scarifier to come and mark my face – “for beauty”. I shouted NO, and quickly fled. I must have been around eight years old.

But the fascination remained, so one day while in my primary school – which was not too far from the house – something  led to another in class and I had a really rough fight with one of my classmates over something that could as well have been as trivial as speaking “vernacular” in the classroom or reporting same to the teacher. I insist now that he had cheated during the fight because I suddenly saw his hand in a flash towards my cheek. It was all he could grab so he scratched me as hard as he could, and I felt a deep searing pain. A few seconds later, I touched my face with my palm and I saw a map of the vertical stripe blood on my hands. Then a few drops began to trickle onto my shirt. It was painful and I let him go, but it was also a brief moment of epiphany. Instead of continuing with the fight which I could by now have won if only for the moral upperhand of rage, I bailed, and everyone stared at me, wondering what was happening. I ran homewards as fast as I could to the store where mother always kept her cooking coals, with blood still dripping from my face. What I did in those fleeting moments of pain and panic was grind the few charcoal chalks into soluble powder, and apply it to my bleeding face. Thinking about it now, I almost can’t believe the extent of my little daredevilry and stupidity, because if my grandmother had caught me there, she would definitely have panicked, and I would definitely have received some serious spanking from her long cane. Now satisfied with my experiment, I grimaced in pain and smiled in satisfaction. The line had been drawn, no pun intended, and the local science had been put to test.

Looking at that lone vertical stripe today in the mirror on the right side of my face, I could only smile. It used to be a really prominent one. Now it’s just an almost indistinguishable scar, but it’s there alright. While applying for the Fulbright programme early last year, I wrote an account of this experience in my application to illustrate one of my first personal intimations with some of Yoruba cultural practices, and only just hoped for some laughter when the board eventually got read it. It was to my surprise on the big day of the interview when the board begged that the light be switched on in the room so that they could properly see the scar on my face. Apparently I had made a memorable impression on them. I was giggling and grinning like an eight year old child as I showed it to them. It was an interesting moment. And while one of them huddled close almost hand-tracing the line on my face, I myself wondered within why and how I could have been such an enfant terrible willing to put his own self on the line for such a little discovery. My face now bears one lone mark that wasn’t there since birth birth like that of many Yoruba people now wishing that they could erase theirs, or at least that they had got a choice in the matter in the beginning as they really should have.

Maybe I was really that terrible as a child, now atoning for those sins through the huge torment of the writing spirit. The lone stripe on my face may be a fine reference point to some precocious point in my interesting history, but the real truth is that secretly, I really really just wanted to prove my father wrong.

 

Image Credits: http://www.vub.ac.be/BIBLIO/nieuwenhuysen/african-art/images/sothebys2008yoruba.JPG

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Dear Henry,

How are you today? I hope you are fine. I’m not so cheerful today. My arm hurts from the immunization injection I took last week. I’m bored from waiting for the long weekend to end, and I’m too lazy to get out of bed to make dinner. But that’s beside the point. I have always wanted to write you a letter.

From the last news I got from home yesterday, you and your little brother have finally left Ibadan for Lagos with your mum to face the new realities of life. I have used those big words “realities of life” just so that you know that the life in Lagos is not going to be as fun, colourful or adventurous as it would have been if you had stayed with your grandma in Ibadan. Or what do you think? In Lagos, you will be sheltered, you will spend most of your time indoors taking care of Oyin with whom I’m told you haven’t been getting along well most of the time. That’s no fun. When I was your age, I had already formed a mental map of the neighbourhood in which I lived, and I always managed to sneak out of the house to explore when no one was looking. It got me some spanking many times, but I always did it again. It was mad fun. It also helped that my parents were both working so I stayed most of those times with my grandmother. I can’t tell you how nice that was. But you had the chance since last year, didn’t you? You have stayed with your grandma for how many months now, along with Oyin. Did you enjoy it? I bet you do. She can be doting and relaxed when it comes to her grand children. With us growing up, everything fun and permissive was considered “indulgent”, and we weren’t supposed to do them. Until lately, she never even believed that anyone not older than eighteen should own a mobile phone. Yea, she’s strict like that. She’s changed a lot now though – things that come with growing up – yet I bet that if you eavesdrop on her conversation with your mum occasionally, you’d hear them argue about the most appropriate length of a woman’s skirt.

Since you returned from Ireland last year, coming to Nigeria for the first time, I have been really worried about you and your little brother, wondering how you would cope in a country that still grapples with the problems of electricity. I bet coming to Nigeria was your first time of seeing a power cut that lasted more than two minutes. How did you take that? Oh I remember, your mum told me that you looked at her and asked her to “put the light back on”, as if she was the one who took it out in the first place. Aww, so cute. By now, you are probably used to it, which might be a good thing. You are going to be a strong, rugged Nigerian man, not surprised by power outage nor shocked by an absent president. I bet it’s even the least of your problems. I remember that on June 22 or so in 1990 when the Orkar Coup took place in Lagos, the only memorable feeling I had was exhilaration. I didn’t know who Orkar was, but the excitement in the air all around our school tickled my brain beyond description. Work stopped, and everyone talked in low tones. There was an energy that I can’t describe. And when my father stormed into the school compound demanding that the school released his children to him or provide the signature of the school’s proprietress on a document taking absolute responsibility for our safety, and accepting all liability in the event of any mishap on anyone of us his children, I was giddy. She released us immediately, and we went home in daddy’s car, one of the few times he left work to pick us up from school. We had roasted corn, and ice cream – that one that is scooped into a cone and eat out of it. Yea, I still remember.

My point here is that I acknowledge the fact that you may not care about politics or everything going on around you except to the extent of their providing you with excitement. But why Lagos? That state is too fast, my young man. You need serenity in your life at this point in time. You need adventure, and I’m afraid that you might be exposed to too much of the grim realities of Nigeria before you’re sufficiently capable of reacting to them in the most playful, adventurous, and deeply reflective way. I may be wrong. In any case, take time out of your day to have fun. Do not, I repeat do not, spend your day in front of the television. It is bad for you. Go out and play with the sand. Get dirty. Your mum will wash the clothes, don’t worry. Play with flowers. Build sand castles like I did with Laitan when we were younger. We would later find grasshoppers and put them in the castle, watching them through the perspex glass ceiling, observing their process of discovering that they had been trapped. Now that I think about it, I realize that it must have be frustrating to those little insects. Build fake stoves, plant corn and potatoes in your own garden at the back of the house like we did back then. Get out of the house often and get lost in the streets. Walk for kilometres and return. Let your parents get worried and look for you everywhere, and let them find you. They might hit you involuntarily though if you stay too long, but don’t let that discourage you. Don’t listen to everything they say while angry. And do not believe them all the time. This is the best education you can have. Have you seen a masquerade yet? Have you taken a swim in the river? Have you stolen a bite out of some of your grandma’s delicious muffins as they lay on the table, or unscrewed your dad’s radio set just to see what makes it work inside? If not, you have a whole lot more to learn.

Your mother won’t tell you this, but when we were younger, we used to steal entrance into my father’s (your grandfather’s) blue Isuzu car whenever he didn’t go out with it. I was the youngest then, although Laitan had been born. She was never around, and I don’t know why. We didn’t have the key to the car but the doors were always open so we’d open it and get in. Actually, one person would get in, release the hand break, put the gear in neutral position and smile as the car went forward the slope towards the compound gate, then hit the brake as soon as it got close to the fence. The rest of us would then push the car back to its initial position, and some other person would get in to repeat the process. It was fun, but they never allowed me to do the driving. I always did the pushing. I think they stopped including me in the game when one day after church service, before anyone got out of the church building, I ran to the car, sat at the driver’s seat, released the gear into neutral and watch the car lurch forward on the long slope of the church’s parking lot that led out towards a sea of people. The problem was, I didn’t know which of the pedals on the ground was the brake. It took some random luck, and a few vigilant men on the road whom I had now almost run over with the already fast moving car to stop me. They must have seen me from afar and figured that I didn’t know what I was doing, so they gathered in front of the car and stopped it with the force of their strength. My heart was in my mouth. I was sweating, and I felt a very sorry. I had done the inconceivable, and I would get some serious punishment later in the day as a result. But I had driven a car, and it felt good. Your mum should remember some of this details if you ask her. But here’s my warning: you don’t have to go to that length to have fun, and besides, you don’t have to do what I have done. That won’t be original. Take liberty with your own ideas, and let me return home to meet you and we can share ideas. Our first meeting should be memorable indeed. I heard that you have really grown, and don’t look like a four year old. Do you still remember what I look like from the photos in your mum’s albums?

My regards to Oyin and your parents, and to your other cousin Jolaade as well. I will write you again when I have the time.

I am your Uncle KT, now at Edwardsville.

PS: Do you speak Yoruba by now? I hope you do. What an irony it is that when I was your age, I was busy getting pummeled by those Ghanaian teachers in my school who believed that it was a taboo to speak my local language within the premises of the school. Like they used to say to us back then in class whenever they were angry, I say “Wasia” to them now too. :)  And I still don’t know what it means. I only know that it’s not an English expression, and it wasn’t nice.

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It’s Been Twenty

On a cold September night in 1989, an extra ordinary event happened in a brick house in Akobo, Ibadan, a memory of which that I’ve never lost.

It was father’s fourty-sixth birthday, and we had all gathered at night as usual on the large sofa in the sitting room, surrounding him and listening to stories and the many songs father sang to us. It was a cheerful moment, one of the many that I remembered that took place every night after he returned from work. It always took place on the big leather sofa, and as there was not often electric power, but a glow of a kerosene lamp or sometimes none at all. The beauty of the room was often from the glow of our spirits as we learned from the stories and songs. It was always a priceless moment.

This day however became memorable not because it was his birthday, but because a little shortly into the evening of singing and happy birthday revelry, my grandmother passed away. She had been bed-ridden for a while before then, but it was of an eerily moving significance that she had chosen the night of her son’s birthday to depart from the world, and the coming days would witness a deluge of guests and well wishers who knew her both as a storyteller and as a deeply reflective woman. I do remember a few of my times with Mama as she was fondly called by all, but a few of those instances included some rascality on my part as well. I do vividly remember the day that I took off with a pack of Chocomilo chocolate cubes from her wooden selling counter, in order  to retaliate for something she had done to tick me off. My defence was that she deserved to be so punished because I didn’t deserve the flogging she had given me earlier, and that I deserved the sweets for myself anyway since I was a little boy without money to buy it.

Mama always had a long cane to deal with errant children. She also always had a story to tell, or a song to sing. From my earliest memories, I knew her as a fascinating human being who also made the most delicious efo riro whenever we came back from school hungry. I loved her, but back then as a rascally young boy almost on his way out of primary school, I couldn’t have put it this way, not exactly knowing what love meant besides writing fictive love stories about my primary school crush and other romantic interests. I only knew that she was there when we wanted her to, especially when we were about to get a deserved beating from either mum or dad, to intervene, and pacify them. I surely wasn’t prepared for her departure, having known her for such a little time.

Today, I remember my grandmother. It has been twenty years, and the vivid, and often distant memory of her remains with us, especially – I’m sure – her son, whose birthday today will always be a day to remember, and the celebrate the extraordinary gift of life, and love. Here’s to two extraordinary people in my life whose blood runs in me and whose stories I carry, and who by being themselves gave me a tremendous opportunity and mandate to always, always know, and discover myself. Because of who they are, here I am. It is a circle of life.

Happy birthday father.

I remember you Mama.

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