ktravula – a travelogue!

reflections on the world

My Bite Christmas

I spent Christmas day on the road to many places. In each of the places were food, drinks, gifts, people and nice conversations. Thousands of kilometres away from home, I was once again relishing the pleasures of American hospitality. At some point in the evening, expecting a profound answer, I asked the guests at the table what the most traditional American meal was. The answer was: The hamburger. I was surprised. I always thought that that belonged to the Germans.

There’s a long history behind the nation’s diet, all traceable to immigration. The New England Pilgrims brought and eventually grew wheat bread, with turkey and pheasants made into sausages, stews, pies and pastries. The Native Americans ate crabs and salmon among many other sea animals, Italian settlers came with their pasta and some seafood diet, the Spanish brought lamb, the Africans brought pork, the cornbread, and meals made out of potatoes and sweet potatoes, among others. Years after, what we have is a country whose gastronomical map is as diverse as its accents.

The diversity is not always a thing of joy for those from where the food originally came, however. None of my Indian friends ever like foods served in “Indian” restaurants in America. The burritos sold at Taco bell are hardly as authentically Mexican as the ones in Cuernavaca. Poundo yam sold in plastic bags don’t taste like the pounded yam sold at Mama Ope in Bodija, and neither are fortune cookies anymore Chinese than French fries are from France. All the food that cross the Atlantic inevitably lose their old self, and like the people themselves, evolve, sometimes becoming better, and sometimes not, but mostly always remaining delightful. Americana.

And so my Christmas dinner consisted of lots of lamb, stuffing, mashed potatoes, green beans, asparagus, salmon, capers, salad, bread, corn, chicken, carrots, cakes and perhaps more than I can now presently remember. One major absence however was any sausages, or hamburgers. I guess it’s not so traditional after all. As fast food, yes, but one wouldn’t expect to find them on a table set for a Christmas gathering? No. Yet, I became curious as to how a four inch roasted meat lying in-between two slices of bread (no entendres) came to acquire such fame across the world (and among Americans themselves) as America’s national food.

Away from this all however is my delight in the diversity that made the country what it is. Much like home faraway in Ibadan, the day ended as a thankful tribute to the warmth of friendships and human connection, and the significance of such a wonderful holiday.

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The Pleasure of Swallowing

In the heart of the gastronomical art of the people south of the Sahara is the delight of swallowing. Around mounds of hot dough made out of yam, or rice, or potatoes, or corn, or even millet, bowls of soup lay spread on a mat in the middle of a salivating family. Dinner time is more than just the conversation that lubricates the passing of each balls of dough through the oesophagus into the waiting bellies, it is an appreciation of the craft behind the cooking, and the process of eating. Feeding is an art in itself. I see it now: bowls of pounded yam along with egusi soup, hot plates of amala on which ewedu and gbegiri compete for dominance, and all around the plate surrounding small reefs of fried beef. It is the pleasure to behold, and the pleasure to hold on the tongue before the final swallowing.

So a friend from Jamaica had encountered pounded yam for the very first time, and looked bewildered at the suggestion that each handful of a rounded ball of the dough already coated in soup had to be swallowed in entirety. “This is too large for my throat,” she said. I took another look at pounded yam today and discovered that she was right. Contrary to the suggestion that all you do is throw the ball of food in your mouth and swallow it, the process before the swallowing is actually a little more complicated. It starts with a swirling on the tongue of the food in order to separate what’s “food” and what’s “sauce”. A little teeth-work takes place afterwards to press whatever is necessary into the right shape for the throat. Everything else follows.

It is safer to say that whenever you get a delightful ball of Yoruba food (be it pounded yam, amala or semo) into your mouth along with accompanying spiced vegetables, you may just trust your tongue and teeth to sort out the rest of the job. It goes into the mouth as a ball of dough, but eventually relaxes into something smoother before a delightful passage into the warm embrace of the gut. The pleasure, eventually, is in the eating. Here therefore is a salute not just to the art of cooking and the long history of efforts behind it, but also to those who revel in its delightful consumption, especially across cultural lines. Feeding, after all is an artful exercise. (In other words, you could just say that I do terribly miss my pounded yam.)

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Roasted Plantain

Lagos, 3rd June 2010

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Food, For Clarissa.

My initial plan was to not only put up pictures of food, but to write a recipe of making them as well. Now, the temptation is just to give you the pictures, and send the recipes later. Or how about I just tell you their names first, and we deal with the making them later?

From the top, clockwise, we have:

1. Fried fish, with cooked (salted) spinach and locust beans, and a morsel of amala. This kind of amala is made from yam powder.

2. Eko (the white solid paste) made from corn, ponmo (from cow skin), and some more cooked spinach.

3. Catfish in peppersoup.

4. Pounded yam in the making. (You peel the yam, cook it without salt, and pound it until fine and doughy, then eat with any soup or vegetable of choice.)

5. Suya. This is a typically Nigerian delicacy. It is cow meat roasted on an open fire with plenty spices, and eaten with cabbages, onions and some more spices.

6. White amala (made from cassava flour) in black-eyed peas soup (also called gbegiri), pepper sauce, and some beef.

7. No comments. This is an almost empty plate of fried rice and moinmoin. Moinmoin is made from blending black-eyed peas (we actually call it beans) together with pepper, and other spices, and cooking it with crayfish or shrimps until solid.

8. More suya. This one is cooked slightly differently from the one in #5. This is stacked on sticks and placed on the fire with the spices. In this picture are three different kinds: chicken, beef and chicken gizzards, all on sticks.

Alright, I’m done here. Ikhide Ikheloa, let me now formally invite you back to Nigeria. :)

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Food

Alright, I’ve searched the calendars of all major religions of the world and found that no one is supposed to be fasting right now, so here is one of the major food pictures I’ve taken in the last couple of days. Salivate, then go make your own dinner.

Happy Sunday, and don’t forget to remember those who haven’t eaten.

PS: This post was supposed to have pictures of plenty food, including the very soft pounded yam I had a few hours ago. But my internet is really really not cooperating. What can I do?

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La Casa Mexicana

How could I not have known that the best and the most affordable restaurant in Edwardsville was going to be a Mexican one? I had never eaten at a Mexican restaurant until yesterday. It was a get-together to say bye bye to Ellen who was retiring from Foreign Language teaching after about 42 years. Present at the event were all members of staff of my department (except the Head, who inevitably had to be absent). I had my first intimation with plenty Mexican dishes and drinks, including the famous jarritos (which is actually pronounced as harritos). There was margaritas, tortillas and chorizos. If your mouth is now sufficiently watered by just the thought of spicy delicious Mexican food, you can give me credit for it. Just go out now, and buy yourself a nice meal. I promise that you will thank me later.

The dinner was wonderful. What’s more, it was my (sorta ;) ) final get-together with that wonderful crew that run the department of foreign language department.

After that, there was another get-together with teachers and students of language in the house of a different professor. Then at night, a hang-out with some friends over bottles of beer. Well, the goodbyes are done. The last supper? Maybe not. Next stop, an all-night drinking binge with somebody, somebody and somebody.

When? When? When?

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Onion-Sage Stuffed Goose Recipe

As culled (or stolen) from Clarissa’s blog, by Paul C. I wonder why I didn’t think of this since a long time ago. Better late than never, right?


Before

Ingredients:

3 lbs of onions.
½ cup of butter.
½ cup of celery, chopped with leaves.
6 cups of soft breadcrumbs.
1 tablespoon of salt.
½ tablespoon of freshly ground black pepper.
1 tablespoon of dried sage.
1 teaspoon of dried savory.
½ teaspoon of dried marjoram.
¼ teaspoon of ground nutmeg.
1 goose, about 11 lb.
1 tablespoon of fresh lemon juice.
Salt and pepper.
2 chicken bouillon cubes.
Boiling water.


Directions:

  • Peel and cut the onions into quarters, then put them in a large saucepan, and add just enough boiling water to cover, and simmer, covered, for about 15 minutes or until just tender.
  • Drain, cool, and coarsely chop the onions.
  • In a large heavy skillet, melt the butter.
  • Add the chopped celery and gently sauté for about 3 minutes, stirring frequently.

    After

  • Add half the breadcrumbs and cook gently until lightly browned, stirring frequently to combine.
  • Place the remaining breadcrumbs in a large mixing bowl.
  • Add the salt, pepper, sage, savory, marjoram and nutmeg. Toss to combine the ingredients.
  • Add the prepared onions and the sautéed celery and breadcrumb mixture to the bowl and toss again to combine.
  • Allow to cool before stuffing the goose.
  • Preheat your oven to 400°F (205°C) degrees.
  • Rub the goose inside and out with lemon juice.
  • Generously sprinkle the inside of the goose with salt and pepper.
  • Stuff the neck cavity with some of the prepared stuffing and fasten the neck skin to the body of the goose with a skewer.
  • Stuff the body of the goose with the remaining stuffing, skewering and lacing the end closed.
  • Tie the legs and the wings to the body with butcher’s twine.
  • Prick the skin of the goose all over, to let the fat escape while roasting.
  • Place the goose, breast side, down on the rack of a large roasting pan.
  • Add the chicken bouillon cubes to the two cups boiling water and stir until dissolved, then pour the mixture over the goose.
  • Roast for 60 minutes, uncovered.
  • Pour off half the drippings and discard.
  • Turn the goose over and pour two cups of boiling water over the bird.
  • Continue roasting for another 60 minutes.
  • Pour off the drippings from the pan, again.
  • Prick the skin of the goose all over and continue roasting for about 90 minutes more, or until tender.
  • To serve, place the goose on a large platter; remove the twine and skewers to carve.

_________________

Pictures from:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/35/92769658_1f6fab7580.jpg

http://www.ifood.tv/recipe/roasted_turkey_stuffed_with_sage_and_onion

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Photos from the African Night Event

A night (on Sunday 20th February at the University) featuring dance, music, acting, comedy, fashion parade, and food.

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