ktravula – a travelogue!

reflections on the world

The Eagle Has Landed

I arrived in Lagos Yesterday.

Well, I don’t know if it was really “yesterday” or “today” because I’ve had to reset my wristwatch so many times. Right now, it says a quarter past 5am on Sunday. On my laptop whose time still reflects Edwardsville, it says 11.16pm on Saturday. I am sleepless. I have been travelling for 24 hours, but now I don’t even know which of the days I want to occupy. Let me just take Sunday.

I have not eaten anything other than a few fried chicken wings that my sister thought might do me some good. Really? Even with this overweight size of mine? When I left here in August, I was about 176 pounds. Now I’m about 200, and what do I get for that? Some more fried chicken. I’ve danced, and sweated, and hugged my nephews and nieces some of whom I’m meeting for the first time. I’ve now also been bitten by wicked mosquitos as I type this post. Returning from a one-year trip abroad has certainly put some things in perspective. Electricity, area boys, police, stable internet, time zones, and fried chicken.

Let me thank you all faithful blog readers, those who leave and those who don’t leave comments. I thank the wonderful staff of the foreign languages department, SIUE, for a wonderful session. Belinda Carstens-Wickam, Douglas Simms, Tom Lavalle, Olga Bezhanova, Mariana Solares, Debbie Mann, Yvonne Mattson, Joaquim, Heidi, Carolina; and the workers in the language lab: Catherine, John, Rachael, Elizabeth, Heather, Scott, Joey, Elvira and everyone else I may have forgotten to mention.  I thank Prof Ron Schaefer, the director of International Programmes, Sandra Tamari who also works in the same office, and every other person in the IP who made my stay very pleasant, even though they don’t read my blog. I thank the students from both semesters for a wonderful time. I also thank my friends in Cougar Village, Mafoya, Chinomso, Ikechukwu, Jocy, Chris, Ben, Mahsa, Iman, Yo, Keshi, and Afua. See you guys soon. I miss you already.

This is not the end, dear blog readers. I am going to tell you about the trip, and some observations from France and New York. Right now, I just want to figure out which of these time zones I want to adjust to.

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Lethargic Thursday

By the Lincoln Statue at Grant Park, Chicago

I woke up today with an overwhelming sense of lassitude which has characterized my Thursday mornings. I have named them lethargic because they are usually the day of the week when I’m most useless to myself and to society. For the past three months, I have spent the better part of this day in bed with my earphone in my ears and a laptop on my lap. Or sometimes on the sofa flipping through the interminable channels on American television. Maybe it is from working all day on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesdays till late in the night, but whenever I wake up on Thursday, I only think of getting back into bed. Today is one of those days, and minus a little occasional effort around the bathroom and towards the door to get delivery of ordered food, I have been indoors.

It could be the cold, the gradually reducing temperature. It could also be the change in seasons that makes sure that it is already dark by 3pm. It is mostly the fact that I don’t usually have any campus obligation on Thursdays. And to cap up the already lazy week is the fact that next week is totally work-free. Yes indeed. By this time next week, we will be celebrating the annual Thanksgiving Holiday in the United States. It is however a week-long holiday that ensures that no one goes to school or work. Everyone stays at home to eat, drink and be merry. For my apartment, it will be very lonely as my two American housemates are heading home. It will be this traveller alone in the large apartment, pondering time, paces and spaces. This is usually a time when poetry descends from its high realm of the heavens. It will definitely be a long week.

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It could also be the withdrawal symptoms from the open spaces of Chicago. Truly, my Thursdays are usually lethargic, but this particular level of slowness is unprecedented and could only have resulted from my three days on Chicago’s streets. So what if I had spent a week there, or even a month? I probably would never have wanted to return here in a hurry. That city is endearing in a way that is not too pushy, yet it entices. I can’t say the same of Lagos, Nigeria where I usually always seek to escape from at the slightest opportunity. Next month will find me in Washington DC, New York (probably) and the state of Maryland. It will be a chance to compare the differences in the behaviour of big cities. Of course, thinking only of the cold, I would probably just wish that I can stay here in Edwardsville where somehow I’ve been able to adjust to the gradually lowering temperature.

I need ideas of something fun to do for one whole week, besides the Turkey-eating activities of Thursday which will take place as scheduled in the right homes of my host parents at Edwardsville.

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And It’s All Over

IMG_2330I will leave Chicago with this feeling: thrill; this impression: awe. Here’s a city that runs on order and a certain edge. Walking the length and breath to where my feet could reach, I found an open eyed town that never stops demanding. Either going upward on an elevator onto the Skydeck of the Sears Towers, taking pictures there on the glass ledge, requesting for branded gift items at the Institute of Arts, getting a guided tour, getting a 4D Fantasea tour of the Shedd Acquarium, or getting onto the Ferris Wheel at the Navy Pier, Chicago never stops demanding. Here’s where a padlock costs up to $10.  (A little riddle on that: Q: Which is safer, a padlock with number combinations or a regular one with jam and lock? A: If they both cost the same, they stand equal chance of being broken), and a bottle of soda could cost almost $3. It’s a shopaholic’s heaven, a traveller’s escape and a photographer’s playground. There’s hardly ever a place to turn without something memorable to see. The one advantage of this set of travellers was our preference for our feet as means of transportation all through the large city. There probably was no other way we could have seen so much.

IMG_1994New York has the Subway. London has the Underground system. Chicago has the “L”. “No, not the ‘El’. Only Boston folks spell it like that,” our guide says. “It’s the ‘L’”. It hardly matters that there are places where the train moves at ground level. It’s still the “L” which stands for “Elevated Train.”

The Great Chicago fire of October 10, 1871 that burnt down more than half of the old city and killed hundreds of people was reportedly caused by Mrs O’ Leary’s cow which had been said to have mistakenly kicked a lantern in the barn. A recent ordinance has now been passed to absolve the cow of responsibility, and other reasons have been accepted as causing the fire. And here’s the Chicago humour: The Fire Department of the city now stands on the site of Mrs. O’Leary’s barn, perhaps just in case another fire decides to start from there.

IMG_2073Lying at Union Station with a computer on the lap and an earphone plugging the ears, a stranger stops by, hooded and jittery. He needs a smoke and was ready to pay for it. Walking across the street, a woman with a scarf on her head is throwing up on the curb with no one taking notice. A policeman on small motorped warns squatting travellers to watch out for their bus or stand a risk of being ejected from the Amtrak station as soon as it is midnight. Coming in a cab for the first time during this trip, conversing with a Romanian taxi cab driver, sharing the words of exile. He will one day go back home, but not to become a politician. He’s now a Chicago citizen.

We’re now on the bus out, speeding through lights and wind. This city had its charm and its chivalry. It also had its chaff and chicanery. Bye Chicago. I will remember you.

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It’s Global Warming, Stupid!

I’ve found out that it’s not so cold here after all. Don’t get me wrong, three degrees cold is cold indeed, but coming out of my apartment this morning, I found out that I have indeed been in this kind of cold weather before, and it was neither in Europe nor in the Arctic, but in Nigeria. In Ibadan, to be clear.

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You see, I’ve been having these repressed memories of my childhood brought back. And no, they don’t include memories of a sibling or step-father or any form of touching in the wrong places. I do vividly remember now that while I was younger, it used to be very cold at some times of the year that we always had to wear thick clothing in order to go out. There were times when it rained ice, and it was too cold even to venture out to dance in the rain. As I smell this post-rain atmosphere in Edwardsville, I realize that I’ve indeed been here before, in this cold, in this temperature. I have not seen snow before, and there is no doubt that I will get to see some this year, but what is clear to me beyond reasonable doubt is that I have experienced up to three degrees cold before. In Nigeria, so many years ago. So what happened? Why is it that today at home, everyone sweats profusely and curses the fact that the heat has become so generally unbearable? Yes, you got it. It’s the global warming!

The really memorable thing about this startling discovery is that I did not notice it while I was in Nigeria. There, everything always seemed perfectly normal, even though once in a while, we’d hear someone remark “Oh, it was never always this hot. I wonder what is happening!” And now, I have a perfect explanation for the reason why everyone in my family looked fairer in complexion in all of their baby pictures.

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On Cycling

It is at times stressing, and definitely more exerting than driving a car. I have heard of the many advantages of riding over other means of transportation, and the best will have to be how it may help to protect the environment by reducing the amount of gas fumes in the atmosphere. And it’s healthy. With sufficient nutrition, the rider exercises his muscles and his mental alertness in a way that is not found in other vehicles like plane or car trips. The bike rider definitely lives in every second of the stretch, exercising his lungs as he takes in the breeze around his head. Besides this headache that I feel in my head as a result of yesterday’s daring long ride, I think I actually enjoy this new experience of cycling.

The bike trails in Edwardsville are some of the most advanced in this country, and they form a very beautiful network of tracks of tar for both runners and riders. Yesterday was my first long distance journey out of the campus by myself since the last time I’d made a similar effort about a week after I got my bike. That time, I didn’t go too far. I’d gone to the boundaries of the University, and returned when the signs began to read new names. But I had planned to return on another one of those trips whenever time permitted. The SIUE campus has been reputed to be one of the largest in the country in terms of land area, behind only a few other universities, so venturing out to the ends of the campus boundaries was something of a start. Yesterday however, I went out of campus – through a different route – into town for a visit.

IMG_0193But it was while returning, alone, at night that I had another one of my travula moments. I got to a traffic light that showed red, and I brought out my camera to immediately capture the contrast of the colours against the darkness of the night, only to hear some voices from inside a car on the road, also waiting for the lights to change, screaming in my direction.

“What are you doing?” Apparently they were concerned. For what, I had no idea.

My hand shook from the startling noise, and the camera moved. I had missed my target shot, and I looked back at them. From the distance, I couldn’t see who they were in the car or how many they were. There must have been at least one man, and a few other girls – most likely from the university, and most likely coming from a party. They sounded African-Americans, and the voices I heard were the girls’.

“I’m taking pictures,” I shouted back.

“What for?” I heard again.

“Why do you care?” I retorted, with a shrug. I just couldn’t understand their right to question my priceless appreciation of something of beauty even though, in my mind, I knew that their surprise must be one of these things:

1. That they’d never seen anyone on a bike at night.

2. They’d never seen anyone on a bike at night, taking pictures.

3. They’d never seen anyone on a bike at night, taking pictures of a traffic light!

They became quiet for a little while, and then the light changed. They must have then resolved the doubt within their murmurs, because I then heard: “Okay, have fun taking pictures,” and I said “Thank you” with a thumbs up gesture, before they went across the t-junction towards the university. In my surprise, I didn’t immediately move across the road myself, nor return to get another camera shot of the traffic lights, but later on the way home, I couldn’t immediately decide as well whether that was an awkward moment, or not.

PS: Today, I’m signing up for membership of bicycles-for-humanity.org and bikesfortheworld.com, two non-governmental organizations whose aim is to find unused bikes in North America, Europe and some other western countries and send them to spots in the world where they’re most needed, and where they might change someone’s life by providing an effective means of harmless transportation. Join them if you can. You might be helping someone, somewhere.

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God Bless America!

Edwardsville

Today is a beautiful day of many surprises. I’m still reeling from the exhilaration of the very distinguishing welcome, and I don’t know where to begin. It is not up to twenty-four hours ago when I talked about the generousity of my hosts, and now, with both hands full and head spinning as if in the clouds, I realize how blessed I am, and how blessed in return my hosts must be – for it holds true every time that givers never lack. Today was a welcome event for international scholars/students.

Lunch at Faculty

Here’s how it all started. I had woken up iin the morning feeling all dull and lethargic, and I didn’t feel like going out. I looked at my blog and found that I had made only one reflective post on the 19th. I thought of making some more posts on America’s awkward signs, London from above, the taste of strawberry, but I got lazy and played around the internet instead. Then I got an email from my secondary supervisor here, who is Nigerian, and he arranged for me to come over to school to meet up with him. Reluctantly, I got up and did so, and we went over a few of the things I needed to know as a faculty member. I went from there to my department (of Foreign Languages) and was hijacked by the Chair, Belinda, who invited me to lunch with other new and old members of the faculty. They were from Spain, McGraw Hill (the publishers), Germany, Mexico, France, and Nigeria (Me). It was a good lunch. I had to teach everyone how to correctly pronounce my name.

New Family

In the evening, Reham and I attended the International Welcome for foreign students/scholars where we were treated to a very large banqet. It was organised by the Internation Hospitality Programme people: the guys that gave me that spectacular fruity choclatey welcome. Along with plenty to eat, there was also plenty to take away. There was a hospitality stand where students could get cutleries, beddings, electronics and plenty many other things to take home, all for free. The most unique part of the evening was where students got to sign up with host familes for “adoption”. As a foreign student/scholar, your host family would be responsible for making you birthday cakes, taking you out to occasional dinners, calling you when you’re sick, and generally doing things your parents might do if they were here. It is a very responsible programme, and Sai says he was moved almost to tears by how caring these adoptive parents could be, and how seriously they took their “parenting” jobs. My adopted parents now include an Indian father and an American mother.

New Friends

My second family has an African-American parent, both already almost of grandparenting age. Very nice. They’ve asked me for what I need, and I told them I’d make a list when I can. I can’t think of anything right now. I have their home addresses, and I will be visiting them soon, on my new bike. Yea, I finally got a bike, and in less than fourty-eight hours after I put it in my notes to self. Well, let me tell you about how I got it, but not before this report. Sometimes during this evening’s programme, our names were drawn in a lottery, and twelve lucky people out of about three hundred of us were picked out randomly to be given gifts. I was the second draw, and I was presented with a bag of even more stationeries: jotters, pens and pencils, and a branded SIUE t-shirt. Now what were the chances that I would make that list of twelve out of that large number? I was never a lucky person when it came to odds, and yet there I was with a bag of free gifts. Then came Papa Rudy.

Rudy Wilson

I first met Rudy Wilson in Ibadan in 2003 while I was an undergraduate of Linguistics. He was one of a team of University professors on an exchange programme from Southern Illinois University, Edwardsville to the University of Ibadan. He was in company of Ron Schaefer, Matt Emerson, Eugene Redmond and a few other scholars from SIUE working with the likes of Remi Raji, Francis Egbokhare, Samuel Asein (who ironically died here in Edwardsville a few years later). I was just a bloody undergraduate then, but I remembered him. We had some very nice time in Ibadan at the time, especially during a get-together celebration we had then for the then newly crowned Professor in Ibadan, Francis Egbokhare, who was at the time Ibadan’s youngest professor.

Rudy to the right
The programme featured poetry readings, small talk and food. I remembered Rudy as one of the hip, mischievous, but lively members of the SIUE crew, and his name stuck in my mind for a long time. I met him again today on the floor of the basketball court where the event took place. He didn’t remember me, but I reminded him of those times we had. We were taken to each other instantly, and we exchanged addresses. We talked a lot about some old stuff, and he told me lives in Edwardsville. I said I would come check him out when I got my bike, and that was when it came:

“I do have a bike I could give you.” He said.
“Really?” I asked, surprised.
“Yea. It’s pretty new. I haven’t used it a lot, but it’s just sitting at home idle.”

My new bike, with helmet.

“That would be nice.” I said. “I would appreciate it. I have been meaning to get a very cheap one when my paycheck comes in.”
“No, don’t worry. I’ll give it to you. Do you want to come for it this evening, or tomorrow?”
“Today will be nice. I can ride it home from your house, if you don’t mind.”
“No, I’ll give it to you, and then drop you off back at Cougar Village. I won’t want something to happen to you on your first night in town. After all it’s getting dark. Can you ride a bike?”
“Of course I can ride one.”
“But you have to ride it with a helmet always.” He said.

I should have told him “It’s like sex: one never really forgets the techniques,” because later on the way to his beautiful house in town where I met his nice, beautiful wife and pets, and back to my apartment where my nice bike now rests, I found out the more how much of a nice, brilliant, mischievous and utterly down-to-earth person he is. If he had known that I would be coming, he said, he would have arranged that I stayed with him in Edwardsville rather than the Cougar Village apartment that I now have, and pay for. I explained to him my preference for the Cougar accomodation.

Kola, Nikola!

It would give me some insight into the students life here, and I would need that experience. Rudy also happened to be a very avid collector of art items, which was a good thing, since I had one of my Nigerian artworks with me to give him as a present in return. It was both our lucky day, but mostly for me it was super superb. And to top it all up, I finally met someone taller than me during the evening event. Yippie! Well, it’s not so surprising considering that the program was held on a basketball court. He is a student, who also plays basketball. His name – if you can imagine – is Nikola, but he’s from Serbia. Kola and Nikola. Hmm.

Over all, it was a fantastic evening, even luckier for me, and hopefully for Rudy and my new host families. Now I know why the folks at home think I might not want to return!

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Signs

Signs are a conspicuous presence everywhere you turn in the United States. Whether they be stop signs, warning signs or advertisement signs, there is always something to guide you on the way. Here are a collection of pictures taken of signs, from Providence through Boston, St. Louis and Edwardsville.

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Edwardsville

Here are a few first photos I took here at Edwardsville. Enjoy.

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