ktravula – a travelogue!

the Nigerian Ghoul in an American Forest

Browsing the archives for the Observations category.

Jos, Plateau

I entered Jos with some trepidation, but with an open mind, and a five year nostalgia waiting to be assuaged. I also went with an exhilaration reserved for a beautiful place that has gone with me everywhere I went since we first met. When I left the town a few hours later in the evening of Tuesday, I left with some sadness, and a mild confusion as to where the State is headed, and where the crises will lead. On the one hand are ubiquitous police patrols at every hundred metres from Ta Hoss to Makira to Riyom, and on the other hand is a town that still moves as it always does, cheerful, without any hint of danger. Well, welcome to Jos.

Picture #3 is the sign at Kuru which reads: “Nigerian Railway Corporation: The Highest Point in Nigerian Railway. 1318.20 metres or 4324 ft above sea level.

Picture #8 is the famous Riyom rocks that have stood in that delicate design since centuries.

Picture #9 is a carver I saw in Jos, making mortar and pestles with his hand, a chisel and a wooden mallet.

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Lafia

The capital of the relatively new state of Nassarawa does not live up to the standard of its other northern neighbours, but it boasts of an equally serene outlook, but with far less livestock around town.

The road from Abuja to Akwanga, I dare say, is one of the best roads in Nigeria. Surely it’s one of the best roads I’ve been on in the past two weeks, and I’ve been around. One other noticeable thing on the highway is the use of solar technology to power the street lights. This is an innovation that is long overdue in all of all the other states.

The road from Akwanga to Lafia however is one of the dangerous, definitely one of the longest winding roads I’ve been on. It is still undergoing dualization and it might get safer with expansion. It does boast of a good view of the hills and mountains though.

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Zaria

The city of Zaria, about an hour from Kaduna is an ancient settlement founded by the Hausa-Fulani Emirate. Occupied by moslems, headed by an emir and surrounded by a wall thicker from its looks than five feet. Five times every day, devout moslems from the “city” come out to the central mosque in front of the emir’s palace to pray. We arrived there at such a time and such couldn’t do more than mere pacing and a little sight-seeing. From what we learnt later, the suspicions of the emir of the old city of the christian missionaries led to the founding of the first church in Northern Nigeria at a place a few miles out of the city gates. An interesting story.

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Meanderings

The task of making comparisons between states and towns along the roads to the North of Nigeria would soon inevitably fall on anyone undertaking a task of going around the country – Africa’s largest by population. Are there much differences in population, order, electricity, internet access, and a general sense of well-being? Are we that much different after all no matter where we choose to live, or do we differ only because we speak different languages or pray to a different invisible man than the other person? The answers are not that difficult if only we apply ourselves to discovering it.

The young man in whose house I slept for two days in Kaduna finished from the University in Zaria in 2005 and served in the same year in Edo State. I had never met or spoken with him until that night when I showed up at his door with another friend and asked to stay overnight for the period of my footloose tour of his state. The young man at the motor park who negotiated by bike ride with the hausa-speaking rider within my first five minutes of arriving in the state was of the same breed. Oblivious of the fact that we had indeed been in the same car through the ride from Abuja to Kaduna and never haven spoken even once, he gladly got me towards the right direction, all for a handshake, “thank you” and a goodbye smile. Human goodness, I say.

In countless meanderings around places around the world, I have encountered the same kind of optimism and open-heartedness even from random strangers, and it has never ceased to amaze, and to delight. If only we could all live together as one, all the days of the year. While eating lunch yesterday and getting prepared to head out, there was the news flash on television that nine (or ten, depending on who you ask) people have again been killed in a fresh case of violence in the city of Jos. Over what? Religion?

Of all the things that should cause violence, shouldn’t religion in a sane world be the least relevant, especially since none of us is really sure? But what do we have? Moslems pray to Allah to help them destroy their enemies, and sometimes even lend him a hand. Christians sometimes do the same, praying for God’s help to vanquish the unbelievers. To paraphrase George Carlin, one of these groups would be fucking disappointed. Could it be… everyone? Is love for neighbour so hard to conjur in a world where we have succeeded in dominating nature and pretty much everything else?

Forgive my rant, all I wanted to say was that I love what I see in most of everywhere I have been around the country. Kaduna reminds me of Ibadan, but not in every way. Ibadan is too rowdy, and so is Kaduna city, with rickety buses and loud bus conductors who speak only the local language. But as far as scerenity is concerned, Ibadan has much much less open land areas along the highways than Kaduna does, and politically, my city seems far less mature. End of rant.

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Ilorin, in Pictures

Here are shots taken around Ilorin last week that I wasn’t able to share due to internet connection issues.

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Around Kaduna

1. The Kaduna Mosque

2. Hassan Katsina House

3. A road scene

4. The Emir of Zazzau’s palace in Kaduna, opposite the Kaduna Museum.

5. A street scene.

6. An antique shop.

7. The railway bridge over Kaduna river.

8. Hamdala Hotel

9. Stadium roundabout

10. The State House of Assembly, reputed to be where Lord Lugard lived while he was in the Northern Nigeria.

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Abuja by Night

Featuring the National Assembly and a few other places.

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Bargaining, Hausa Style

This is the kind of bargaining I’m used to. You walked up to the seller, you offered your rate and s/he offered his/hers. You went down and down until s/he could tolerate you no further and then you bought. I have found out a new version. I had walked into the shopping complex at Wuse Zone 3 a few days ago, desperate to buy a Dell powerpack. One I was using had blown up in Ilorin and I really really had to send an email. I entered the first shop and the sales person there was very welcoming. I told her what I wanted, she confirmed the voltage and went to look for it.

“How much is it,” I asked.
“Bring 5,000 naira,” she replied.

I’d learnt to be wary of offers that begin with “bring…” so I said, “I’ll pay 3,000.”

Actually, I really wanted to pay 2,500 because I didn’t have much to start with, and I couldn’t remember just how much I bought it the last time.

We went back and forth for a while, and after a while, I noticed that she was beginning to like my “3,000″ idea so I went down again. “Actually, all I have is 2,500.”

She flared up.

Apparently, the way to bargain is to choose the lowest common denominator and bargain up to meet the seller. “Why did you say 3,000 when you knew that all you had was 2,500?” She demanded angrily and turned me into the bad guy. I wasn’t ready to be bullied into a hasty purchase anyway, so I walked to the next shop where I got it for 2,700. I had started my bid from 2,000.

Unfortunately, as soon as the purchase was complete, I was kicked out of the shop for staying longer than necessary “testing” the equipment.” All I wanted to do was to send that pressing email. And even though the first shop had a more welcoming attitude, it was too late to return there to ask for a favour. A teachable moment.

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