ktravula – a travelogue!

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Browsing the archives for the Observations category.

Lagos Morning Surprise

It’s a Monday morning in Lagos, after a sustained night rain, and the city – for the very first time – showed an uncommon character the like of which might never be seen again.

The sewers had opened up their wares, with dung floating to the surface and onto the many streets in the flooded island. With sleeves and pant legs rolled up to keep wetness to a minimum, commuters and pedestrians saunter onto the road, most of them an hour later than they ordinarily would. The transportation buses had left the roads early enough – perhaps the only regular feature of the city’s uncertain character – and commuters who got to the road at anything after 6am had been left stranded now, praying for a miracle to get them to their places of work on time. That was when it happened.

DSC_0284A police van heading to its patrol point in the city parked by a throng of people at one bus stop, and asked folks to come in. They were at first surprised, and then – realizing a once-in-a-blue-moon chance – rushed in and filled the back seating area, saying “thank you” as often as they could. The cops merely smiled, started the van, and moved on. As if on cue, another car stopped, this time a Prado Jeep driven by a young woman of around 32, likely the employee of a bank, or any other high-paying job. “Aren’t you going?” She asked no one in particular, as a few more people paced briskly towards it and sat themselves in comfortable positions in front, and at the back. “I am late to work too,” I heard her say impatiently. “Get in and let’s go. I can drop you off anywhere between here and Law School.”

Fullscreen capture 5132013 45702 PM.bmpThe sky remained dour and drizzly as one fancy car after the other stopped at each bus stop to pick up passengers many of who were usually stunned at first that such private drivers could really have intended for them to get into the cars. In one instance, a passenger refused to give into the driver’s constant entreaty that he would, indeed, give him a ride for free and drop him off wherever he would be getting down. “I don’t get it,” the man said to himself. “Lagos rich people are never this considerate.” The driver drove away, perhaps stunned by the resistance of a helpless passenger in the face of help on a rainy day.

For the next one hour, Escalades, Sorentos, Four-Wheelers, Land Rovers, Land Cruisers, small saloon cars, a BMW, a station wagon, a church bus, another police van, a school bus, two empty BRTs heading to a repair shop, a couple of small tricycle scooters, a soldier on a motorbike, a Mercedes Benz, and a number of other new and rickety vehicles, each otherwise empty except for their drivers (and sometimes one other passenger), stopped by all crowded stops to pick up passengers stranded there and late for work. It was a surreal, almost eerie, sight on a Lagos morning. Humanity came alive in a way never before seen and would never be believed by anyone else not there to witness it. There is hope for this country after all, I thought to myself as I concluded my morning stare at the bus stop,  finally accepting an offer to ride with a middle-aged lady in corporate wear who driving her 10 year-old kid to school.

All of this is fiction, of course. You can tell.

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Xperia’s Lagos

2013-04-19 10.27.32 2013-05-03 16.07.16 Lagos Roulette 2013-05-03 16.07.53 2013-05-03 09.37.23 2013-05-03 09.36.18 2013-04-30 07.00.25 2013-04-26 15.37.32 2013-04-25 11.56.17 2013-04-26 15.40.05Unless Sony Ericsson makes me an offer I can’t refuse, this is the last time I’ll put a name of their brand on a blog title :) .  This caveat is necessary in case anyone begins to wonder whether I’ve already been paid to present the camera of one of their better phones in a good light. From how it has worked with me so far, it seems that I don’t need to do that after all. The product speaks for itself.

However, if I do get an offer to try out any of their even better, newer, Xperia versions, it would be nice to compare what I have to what new functionalities they offer. If Google is listening too, I wouldn’t mind trying a Nexus either.

In any case, this post is about a few photos taken around Lagos, Nigeria. Enjoy.

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An Observation…

That I am not as free, or as eager, as I would be in a foreign land, to whip out my camera at every available instant in order to take a picture. There is a little reluctance somewhere the source of which I can’t lay my finger on.

2013-04-26 05.57.42On the way to my home is a newly completed highway due to be open sometime soon. The project is still ongoing, and the stretch of the highway is destined towards somewhere farther into the far ends of the state towards a place called Epe. I have observed with impatience, bewilderment, affection, and exasperation as the construction workers toil day by day on the road, causing traffic build-up as they do so inevitably. The road is now done and almost ready for “commissioning” even if that will be done only by commuting tyres rather than an official government representative.

The traveller in me would have documented all the stages of this construction – at least to the best reaches of my camera. And then I remembered that for the better part of the last couple of months, I had no camera to use anyway. The experience with this new Xperia is an encouraging one and I hope to get fully back into this street photography game in earnest. What I have so far impresses me, and that’s a start.

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A Week in Ignorance

It surprised one of my co-workers when, during lunch sometime during the week, I’d mentioned that one of my grouses with the Goodluck Jonathan presidency was his condonement of corruption, citing the example of his appointment of a convicted certificate forger onto the board of a university. The government has since vigorously defended it as proper and not out of the ordinary. Propriety, and setting a good example with exemplary public servants can go to hell.

“This really happened?” My co-worker asked, unbelieving of something that would otherwise sound like something copied out of a satire written by Wole Soyinka. It got the attention of a few more staff members at the table some of whom also had never even heard of Salisu Buhari or his present designation in the corridors of power.

“Yes, he did.” I replied, and the conversation went on and on about a few other ills that paints the administration as one of the most permissive of corruption in the history of the nation’s democratic experiments. “He also pardoned Alamayesiegha, among others.”

SAM_2202Why the conversation surprised me a lot was because I had assumed that everyone, like me, was interested in what was going on in government, and thus fully aware of the misgovernance taking place in our name. I am wrong, obviously. Nobody really cares. As long as the routine of our daily lives are not affected in any way by the corrupt dealings of the “top bosses”, we are fine. This is not a typically Nigerian problem, but as I am here, it is one that I have given a lot of thought. A few weeks ago in Ikogosi Ekiti, during the session on what young people can do to get proper representation in power to be able to effect the changes they want, the chairman of the governors’ forum, Rotimi Amaechi, had suggested to the faces of those present that no change would come as long as people sat pretty and gave the leaders a free hand to do whatever they wanted. How else could it be any different now, I thought, when we don’t even know, or care, about what is going on in the first place? A number of young people have twitter and Facebook accounts. But how many are relevant enough to effect change? When next an ”Occupy” protest comes on and locks down the streets, preventing people from going to work in order to demand for one change or the other, the very first people to complain that the protests have gone on long enough are going to be these ones who (though are very hardworking and well-meaning citizens) have no idea what the heck anyone of us should be worried about. After all, salaries get paid on time, and the road to and from Lekki are good enough in the morning on the way to work, and during evenings on the way back home.

This is the problem, and I can think of millions more who are merely content to go on with their lives without a worry in the world about anything else.

I don’t have a solution.

It just makes for a rather curious study in citizen revolt and participatory democracy.

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Morning in Baga

It is 9 am, Lagos, and the dust has settled from automobiles whose tyres grazed the road tar from the early seconds of the breaking day. It is 9am. Workers have settled into their seats and morning rote slowly beginning. The city moves on with an indifference to change and fear. Indifference. After all, 187 people, or so, mowed down to the brute rhythms of the state’s guns are forever going to be faceless. No national media is going to splash their names and faces on its front cover. There shall be no state funerals or flags at half mast. There shall be no presidential declaration to find the culprits and bring them to book, if only in rote satisfaction of some archaic government protocol. Government magic. Unknown soldier. Vagabonds in power. Collateral damage. Yesterday’s men in green jackboots and auto rifles.

It is 9pm, in Baga, sometime on Friday. Dozens of families woke up to rattles of the government guns pursuing faceless culprits in a shadow war. Forget Boston. Who cares if a city can find one terror suspect in 24 hours without a single collateral damage to innocent lives and properties. This is the giant of Africa! Forget a public information network to alert the public about who the enemy is. Heck, forget the idiotic law that mandates military action only in times of war. Boko Haram lives within you, the guns rattled, they die, as do you. A gun does not tell apart a somnolent villager and a terror suspect hiding within the leaves of a banana plant. Ratatatata, the rhythms of flesh and blood splattered to the beats of falling limbs and tree stems.

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The national news is silent. Reuben is waking up in the bosom of a dame in the Abuja Hilton. Mr. Jonathan had just composed his condolence message to the families of the three victims of the Boston blasts. The state governor in Borno plans his next foreign trip. Lagos wakes, early as it does, with the soft rhythms of dust and rubber tyres. Temperature: 87 degrees Fahrenheit. The dour morning promises rain, and welcome indifference. Across from us, thousands of miles away, pain, and the next planned carnage of the state. Miranda rights and collateral damage just went on an ill-fated date in the wilderness.

 

“Little Blood Flowed” – Presidency.

The dead of Baga sprawl with the leaves on loaves of lead.

Removed from us in mute indifference, we the living dead.

On the trigger that night were notes of “Them? Oh, who cares?

There was where evil hid. Let the living make repairs.

______

NEWS:

President Jonathan Quiet more than 48 hours After Massacre in Borno” (Premium Times)

Pity Boston, Ignore Nigeria: The Limits of Compassion” (The Daily Beast)

“Massacre in Nigeria Spurs Outcry Over Military Tactics” (The New York Times)

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