ktravula – a travelogue!

reflections on the world

Browsing the archives for the adventures category.

In Redneck Country*

The invitation from my friend for me to come along to Highlands – a town about twenty-five minutes away from Edwardsville – included a caveat that I would be entering a “redneck” zone. I immediately conjured up images of a rural and underdeveloped small town with no non-white person in sight, and everyone driving trucks with “NObama 2012″ bumper stickers. The immediate second thought of course was that it was going to be a fun experience witnessing a county fair or a demolition derby for the very first time. I absolutely have to go see this, I said, and started looking for my camouflage fisherman hat.

I have now returned, and I am alive which must mean something (especially to those whose imagination of a “redneck” town includes a horde of black-hating, gun totting, motorbike riding people with tatoos all over their bodies who eat hamburgers, listen to Rush Limbaugh and watch Fox News). In actual fact, what constitute a small town is not really its ethnic homogeneity (even though that is certainly noticeable). What makes a small town a small town is the ordinariness of the way they look at the world, their down-to-earth-ness (as literally as you can interpret that), and the otherwise silly, playful ways in which they spend their leisure (and the seriousness with which they take it).

The county fair is an annual event, I’m told, and it includes a public auction of farm animals. The ceremony is graced by the distinguished presence of the year’s beauty queen of the town who stands gracefully with a tiara on her head beside the stall of the waiting animals. There are also live barns in the fair where if one chooses one could purchase of any of the animals. The cattle are extremely huge and in pretty colours. I saw a sheep wearing a military camouflage jacket. We also saw a hall full of rabbits all for sale for about $2 each. “Do you eat rabbits?” I asked Karla who immediately began to giggle. “No, I don’t.” She said “They’re pets. They’re cute.” Yea right! A few seconds later, the barn owner who had overheard us had a few more words to add. “Of course we eat rabbits. And more, we use parts of them for very many other things too. You know those pee sticks you use for pregnancy tests at home? They’re made from rabbit brains! Their eyes are used for glaucoma testing and the animals are also used to test beauty products before they are released to the market… Of course we eat them. We have about 1,200 of them in our farm at home.” Well, there you go.

There were roosters of various colours and kinds which reminded me of Chicken George in Alex Haley’s Roots. I have never seen so many different kinds of cocks in one place. (I have a different post coming up on this come later. There was something distinctly familiar about the smell of so many free-range roosters put together in one place, cackles, colours, and all. It comes from distant memories of my own childhood).

The demolition derby itself – the fair’s biggest attraction – took place in the arena surrounded by an anticipating crowd. Imagine the arena in Rome with gladiators in the ring. The gladiators in this case are trucks constructed specially for the occasion. The aim is to ram them into other competitors’ trucks as much as possible until there is only one functioning truck left in the arena. Think again of the WWF’s Royal Rumble of those days. By the time we arrived, one truck was already out of commission. The remaining five slugged it out in the mud for a while, and by the time we left, there were three of them left chasing each other around the muddy stage. I’m told that the grand event will take place today with even smaller vehicles still driven by real people, playing the same game. I guess the idea of building something that will eventually be crashed for the purpose of entertainment makes a whole lot of sense. From sitting in the stand and watching along with the intense excitement of fellow spectators, I can at least say that it has its thrilling moments.

All that remained was walking around the fair grounds, observing small town park entertainment, having a first taste of some new snacks (a corndog is a hotdog covered in corn bread and fried. A funnel cake is not a cake. It’s a fried sweet dough covered in icing sugar). In the end, I also discovered that I was not the only black person in a fair of many thousands of people. There was this other guy I saw at the auction close to the horse, but he was probably American.

_______

* I use the term advisedly. Wikipedia tells me that unless you are one yourself, it’s not a word you should use to refer to someone else.

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Writing, Making Friends.

Not altogether the ultimate reason for writing, it is possible that one of the perks is being able to make friends after just a few minutes of conversation. In my case, a cultivated reticence has kept my list of friends and acquaintances manageable, but like it happened again yesterday, I gave in to the delights of socialization and made a new friend.

I was at the Writing Centre where students usually get a half hour with the designated editor who looks through their papers in order to help them get it to the best possible form. A few minutes into our joint editing of said paper, he asked the question that I have now heard more times than any other: “You speak very well. Where are you from?” From there, the sequence of the conversations always take a predictable form.

“I’m from Nigeria.”

“Oh really? That’s  great! How long have you been here?”

“Oh, less than two years, but not a consecutive stretch. This is my first summer in the country.”

“I like your English. Have you always spoken it?”

I say yes, explain why, and say a little more about the post-colonial situation of the continent and how most middle-class and/or educated section of the country speak both English and at least one other language from birth to adulthood.

“It is fascinating. Do people sometimes mistake you for an American because of how you speak?”

“No, I doubt it.” I reply “I think I always let out my identity too quickly before they form any such assumption. I think Americans speak differently anyway.”

“So what else do you do other than being a student? Or what would you do when you’re done?”

“I write, actually. I’ve published one collection of poems”

“Really?” His face lights up.

“Yes. I’ve also written some short stories. One of them was published last year in an anthology of some of Africa’s best stories.”

By now, I knew that the hope of spending my half hour working on my class paper had gone out through the door.

“And I can see it here online?”

“Yes,” I said, and got on his computer. Here it is, on Amazon. African Roar. The second short story in there is mine. It’s titled Behind the Door.

“Did you write it when you were here?”

“No, fortunately.” I smiled. I live for little conceits like this. “I wrote it in 2008, I think, before I came here, but it was published last year.”

“I’d like to read it.”

“You should” I said. “I’d like you to. You’d have to order the book though. You can’t find the story itself online anywhere else.”

“This is fascinating. I’m glad we had this conversation.”

“Thank you.” I said. “I have a blog too. You should check it out.”

“Is that it, KTravula? Is that you in that video?”

“Yes. That was at a talk I was invited to give a few weeks ago. I’ve written on it since I got here. I started it mostly to record observations on the places I visited and the things I see.”

“That’s great. Have you been around a lot?”

“I have been to a few places. From Chicago to Joplin, to DC etc.

“Have you been to Principia?”

“Yes, I have. It was a beautiful place. I wrote about it too.”

“I’m impressed. So you like to travel huh?”

“Sometimes. It is fun.”

“Are your parents or siblings here?”

“Oh no.”

“Interesting. Have you been to Alton?”

“Yes, I believe, but as I remember it, it was a short visit.”

“There is a large statue of (I’ve forgotten the name now) close to the SIU Dental School in Alton. Did you see that?”

“Unfortunately, no. But I’ve been close to the Dental School.”

“Well, thank you for sharing with me. I’ll come to read your blog. I’ll get the book too. Behind the Door you call the story?”

“Yes.”

“I have a friend who started a blog but hasn’t been writing on it. I want to show her what you have, maybe she’d get motivated.”

“Thanks. I hope it helps. I try to update the blog as often as time allows. Do leave a comment whenever you come, so that I know it’s you. Nice to talk to you too.”

“Nice to talk to you too. You work at the Foreign Language Department. One can always find you there, right?”

“Yes, mostly.”

“See you around sometime then.”

“See you too, and thanks for the help with my paper.”

________________________________

This is an abridged recreation of the conversation that lasted about an hour of actually very productive tete-a-tete. I got very useful prompts on the paper I had taken there (at least before our conversation moved into a discussion about writing, travel, migration and family). Along with lessons on the proper use of comma, I also took away from there the name of a new writer, Ambrose Bierce, said to have lived in the time of Mark Twain and written a story called “The Boarded Window”. I promised the editor that I’m going to read it.

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Giving a Hand

Sleepy-eyed after a long day, here are a few shots of the day’s work. The site is a private house/ranch, one of the ones that were ravaged by the storm down to the ground. The owner – present to meet with us – is a man of about seventy-five years old.

The task was to demolish what could be demolished, separate planks of wood from roofing sheets that have been crumbled into a pile, and make the compound at least more navigable until the fire department comes around to burn what could be burnt.

Through the hot morning until the eventually cool evening, we moved sheets, broke wood, threw debris, heaved crowbars at dead joints and leveled the initially formidable pile of debris onto the ground. Two torn shirts, one dead pair of gloves, a dirty pair of pants and ten hurting toes later, here I am. We’ve done what we came here for although there is plenty, plenty more to do elsewhere around the town. The work would not end in one day, or even in a year. But for today, one house is set for re-building, almost.

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Storm Chaser in Joplin

We arrived in Joplin, a town at the southernmost part of Missouri a few miles from the state line, a few hours ago. Here it was where over 200 people were declared dead or lost from the EF-5 tornado of a few weeks ago. I’m in company of two friends, and we have come to join the volunteer efforts of a non-profit organization ServiceInternational.org along with several other volunteers from around the country.

The ride from school to this place took four hours and thirty-five minutes, and it took us virtually through the state itself, covering about 300 miles. We will be here till Sunday helping move debris, giving a hand to US Marine Corps helping with reconstruction, and generally being of help to the numerous folks on the ground helping to get this community back on its feet. It promises to be a satisfying, and learning experience.

I’ll try to post pictures as often as I can, but won’t promise. I will however tweet short observations through my phone as much as I can, so follow me on twitter.Tomorrow will be a long day in the field.

 

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Meeting Ken Burns

The famous American Civil War documentarian and multi Emmy Award filmmaker Ken Burns came to campus today as a guest of the once-in-a-semester Arts & Issues event. Past guests to the event include the Count Bassie Orchestra, Frank Warren of Post Secret, poet laureate Maya Angelou among others.  The event, of course, sold out many weeks in advance, and this blogger was left at his wits end to find a way into the packed auditorium where the man who “more Americans get their history from than any other source” was going to be speaking. It looked like an impossible task in the beginning, but turned out well in the end. Let me see how best I can tell the story in very few words.

Okay, I can’t. It’s a long story. It started with a despairing email to the faculty of the foreign language department and ended with me sitting beside him in an upstairs reception room and assisting him sign books for the scores of people who had come to see him talk, and listen to the way he has influenced American perception of history, especially the Civil War which started 150 years ago. He also looked young for someone who had been in the film business for more than thirty years.

I should probably write a longer post about the event itself, my perception of the man, and the power of storytelling, especially the medium of film. This has always been a favourite interest.

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Going Back to 1861

This week on campus, there was a re-enactment of the camp and battle scenes from the American Civil War in celebration of 150 years since the war started. Here are a few pictures we took there. More than the very surreal feeling of being back in time to when the fate of the country’s unity lay in a balance, subjected to the force of will and rhetoric from the two divides, there was also a good feeling of being able to talk to men descended from real life veterans of the war. The half hour we spent in their company was jolly, and very educative. They do know their history, and many of them have spent decades researching it, and collecting artifacts and relics from the time.

And then we posed for pictures wearing some of their military fatigues, and even trying out the military pose with the gun and bayonet as new recruits would, in those days. One of the “officers” looked at us and warned, in a voice so reminiscent of a real commander. “Be careful boys. If you get too far from camp and you get into the hands of those damned Confederates, I won’t be responsible for whatever happens to you.”

The events will round off this week with a talk on campus by famous Civil War film maker/documentarian Ken Burns at the Merridean Ballroom on Wednesday. The event had already sold out since months ago. But by some luck and persistence, your sincerely has found a way to get into the event without a ticket, with help from some connected people. Don’t ask me how, but I might tell you after the event. I hear that Mr. Burns is one of the most famous documentarians on the Civil War with two Academy Award nominations to his name, and seven Emmy Awards.

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Poems of my Present

I want to write about what I read when – in rare times like this when I have all the time in the world to myself – I get the luxury of contemplating sweet, literary stuff rather than bury my head in the tedium of long linguistic theories. If I were to compile a list of recommendations of things to read to a friend – Nigerian or not, this would be a tentative list. There are very many more.

Poems

Suicide Notes. Poems by Dami Ajayi in Maple Tree Literary Supplement Issue 8.

Letter Home by Afam Akeh in MTLS Issue 2 is a long poem that haunts, and soothes.

Mayakovsky by Peter Akinlabi.

Three Poems by Obemata in Sentinel Nigeria Issue #5

 

What have YOU read that has moved you lately?

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Africa Night – A Celebration of Cultures

Away from the news of uprisings and unrests in parts of the continent, students and faculty of my university gathered on campus on Saturday to feast and celebrate what unites us all: the beauty of music, the graciousness of fashion, the excitement of dance, and the great pleasure of diversity. It was the annual Africa Night event which took place at the Meridian Ballroom. I was the host, along with Jacob Moorleghen, a volunteer from the S.P.E.A.C club – a charming co-host.

Written as a play of two friends from two countries travelling round the continent discovering places, people, food, artifacts and events, the show centred around showing the audience what they would usually not see on the news about Africa and its various people. A continent of (now) fifty-five countries is something that no one would be confident enough to claim to know without some sort of guidance, and the patience to explore. Jake was the American filmmaker, and I was his resource. A little tension of the “otherness” is added, and the drama of discovery begins. We went from Kenya to South Africa, to Congo and to Ghana, and to Nigeria, touching on sites of historical and economic significance along the way in other parts of the continent. The script was written by Julaine Fowlin and supported by a wonderful cast of students and other volunteers.

I am passionate about things like this – theatre, and such opportunities for social interaction and intervention, and I am very happy that it went very well. More than just the pleasure of bringing the beautiful aspects of the continent’s cultures to the appreciation of the most diverse audience, there is also a joy of being in company of such young people who hold the key to the next generation. It was a great night, and I thank the students for inviting/involving me.

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