Browsing ktravula – a travelogue! blog archives for April, 2013.

An Observation…

That I am not as free, or as eager, as I would be in a foreign land, to whip out my camera at every available instant in order to take a picture. There is a little reluctance somewhere the source of which I can’t lay my finger on.

2013-04-26 05.57.42On the way to my home is a newly completed highway due to be open sometime soon. The project is still ongoing, and the stretch of the highway is destined towards somewhere farther into the far ends of the state towards a place called Epe. I have observed with impatience, bewilderment, affection, and exasperation as the construction workers toil day by day on the road, causing traffic build-up as they do so inevitably. The road is now done and almost ready for “commissioning” even if that will be done only by commuting tyres rather than an official government representative.

The traveller in me would have documented all the stages of this construction – at least to the best reaches of my camera. And then I remembered that for the better part of the last couple of months, I had no camera to use anyway. The experience with this new Xperia is an encouraging one and I hope to get fully back into this street photography game in earnest. What I have so far impresses me, and that’s a start.

A Week in Ignorance

It surprised one of my co-workers when, during lunch sometime during the week, I’d mentioned that one of my grouses with the Goodluck Jonathan presidency was his condonement of corruption, citing the example of his appointment of a convicted certificate forger onto the board of a university. The government has since vigorously defended it as proper and not out of the ordinary. Propriety, and setting a good example with exemplary public servants can go to hell.

“This really happened?” My co-worker asked, unbelieving of something that would otherwise sound like something copied out of a satire written by Wole Soyinka. It got the attention of a few more staff members at the table some of whom also had never even heard of Salisu Buhari or his present designation in the corridors of power.

“Yes, he did.” I replied, and the conversation went on and on about a few other ills that paints the administration as one of the most permissive of corruption in the history of the nation’s democratic experiments. “He also pardoned Alamayesiegha, among others.”

SAM_2202Why the conversation surprised me a lot was because I had assumed that everyone, like me, was interested in what was going on in government, and thus fully aware of the misgovernance taking place in our name. I am wrong, obviously. Nobody really cares. As long as the routine of our daily lives are not affected in any way by the corrupt dealings of the “top bosses”, we are fine. This is not a typically Nigerian problem, but as I am here, it is one that I have given a lot of thought. A few weeks ago in Ikogosi Ekiti, during the session on what young people can do to get proper representation in power to be able to effect the changes they want, the chairman of the governors’ forum, Rotimi Amaechi, had suggested to the faces of those present that no change would come as long as people sat pretty and gave the leaders a free hand to do whatever they wanted. How else could it be any different now, I thought, when we don’t even know, or care, about what is going on in the first place? A number of young people have twitter and Facebook accounts. But how many are relevant enough to effect change? When next an “Occupy” protest comes on and locks down the streets, preventing people from going to work in order to demand for one change or the other, the very first people to complain that the protests have gone on long enough are going to be these ones who (though are very hardworking and well-meaning citizens) have no idea what the heck anyone of us should be worried about. After all, salaries get paid on time, and the road to and from Lekki are good enough in the morning on the way to work, and during evenings on the way back home.

This is the problem, and I can think of millions more who are merely content to go on with their lives without a worry in the world about anything else.

I don’t have a solution.

It just makes for a rather curious study in citizen revolt and participatory democracy.

Morning in Baga

It is 9 am, Lagos, and the dust has settled from automobiles whose tyres grazed the road tar from the early seconds of the breaking day. It is 9am. Workers have settled into their seats and morning rote slowly beginning. The city moves on with an indifference to change and fear. Indifference. After all, 187 people, or so, mowed down to the brute rhythms of the state’s guns are forever going to be faceless. No national media is going to splash their names and faces on its front cover. There shall be no state funerals or flags at half mast. There shall be no presidential declaration to find the culprits and bring them to book, if only in rote satisfaction of some archaic government protocol. Government magic. Unknown soldier. Vagabonds in power. Collateral damage. Yesterday’s men in green jackboots and auto rifles.

It is 9pm, in Baga, sometime on Friday. Dozens of families woke up to rattles of the government guns pursuing faceless culprits in a shadow war. Forget Boston. Who cares if a city can find one terror suspect in 24 hours without a single collateral damage to innocent lives and properties. This is the giant of Africa! Forget a public information network to alert the public about who the enemy is. Heck, forget the idiotic law that mandates military action only in times of war. Boko Haram lives within you, the guns rattled, they die, as do you. A gun does not tell apart a somnolent villager and a terror suspect hiding within the leaves of a banana plant. Ratatatata, the rhythms of flesh and blood splattered to the beats of falling limbs and tree stems.

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The national news is silent. Reuben is waking up in the bosom of a dame in the Abuja Hilton. Mr. Jonathan had just composed his condolence message to the families of the three victims of the Boston blasts. The state governor in Borno plans his next foreign trip. Lagos wakes, early as it does, with the soft rhythms of dust and rubber tyres. Temperature: 87 degrees Fahrenheit. The dour morning promises rain, and welcome indifference. Across from us, thousands of miles away, pain, and the next planned carnage of the state. Miranda rights and collateral damage just went on an ill-fated date in the wilderness.

 

“Little Blood Flowed” – Presidency.

The dead of Baga sprawl with the leaves on loaves of lead.

Removed from us in mute indifference, we the living dead.

On the trigger that night were notes of “Them? Oh, who cares?

There was where evil hid. Let the living make repairs.”

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NEWS:

President Jonathan Quiet more than 48 hours After Massacre in Borno” (Premium Times)

Pity Boston, Ignore Nigeria: The Limits of Compassion” (The Daily Beast)

“Massacre in Nigeria Spurs Outcry Over Military Tactics” (The New York Times)

The Fela Rhymes

It caught my eye a couple of years ago, and I haven’t got any satisfactory answer as to their accidental or deliberate inclusion in the structure of the song.

Fela is notable for his retention of the classical jazzy style of music from America and a deliberately African(ized) and political lyric form along with heavy beats and horns. Rhyming for him would have been out of the ordinary. But in the song Trouble Sleep, I noticed the following (the rhyming is emphasized):

Tenant lost im job

E sit down for house

E dey think of chop

Mister Landlord come wake am up

He say mister pay me your rent

Wetin e dey find…

Mister husband marry for church

E make big party

They e start to spray

because him love im wife

This im wife come run away

Bank manager run come

E say mister pay me your debt

Wetin e dey find…

It looks more like an accidental rhyming, especially since no such structure (if we could call it that) appeared anywhere in the second verse which I omitted in this transcript. Yet, It will be interesting if it turns out that the maestro had deliberately worked rhyming effects into one of his famous ballads. What do you think?

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UPDATE:

Fela’s first son -a former band member, and an Afrobeat musician of note in his own right (been nominated twice for the Grammy) – Femi Kuti, responded to my post earlier this evening, on twitter:

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I guess that settles that!

Adventures of a Camera

Camera 360 Camera 360 2013-04-17 08.53.39 2013-04-17 08.15.42 2013-04-15 16.19.49 2013-04-15 09.50.29 Fullscreen capture 4212013 12342 PM.bmp 2013-04-15 07.03.092013-04-20 18.25.09Once upon a time, a camera – a Canon handheld camera. Two cameras, actually, of the same brand, both purchased in the US. That is where the story begins and stops, except for a few other details: each originating in a Radio Shack shop, for about $250, and both ending up lost, along with a treasure trove of photographs that would never again be retrieved. One originated in Providence, Rhode Island, and disappeared at Six Flags, Missouri. The other at Radio Shack, Glen Carbon, and disappeared in a taxi in Lagos Nigeria.

And so one day, a bright idea: why not kill two birds with one stone? The camera on one of the latest Sony Xperia smartphones is reputed to be one of the best in the market. And since in need of a new phone anyway, an investment in a smart phone – the first for this traveler reputed for unexplainable reticence with regards to new technological fads – seemed, all of a sudden, like a good idea. The traveller gains access to the latest perks in mobile technology as well as a handheld camera all embedded in the same device.

It seems now to have worked so far, except for the occasional wait for the camera function to activate when summoned in the middle of another phone function. With thousands of new app functionalities to improve the camera experience, there seems to be something to keep me occupied for a few months to come. And then, a few days ago, I stumbled on Instagram, and the journey is complete. Here’s a platform for showcasing the trial and errors of one’s photographic experiences and experiments with colour and filter.

Enjoy these very few ones around Lagos, through the eyes of an Xperia lens.