ktravula – a travelogue!

reflections on the world

Browsing ktravula – a travelogue! blog archives for June, 2010.

Pilgrimages: Thirteen African Writers. Thirteen Cities. Thirteen Books

The Pilgrimages Project
Pilgrimages is a ground-breaking, pan-African project organised by The Chinua Achebe Center, Bard College, in partnership with Kachifo Limited in Nigeria, Kwani? Trust in Kenya, and Chimurenga in South Africa, in celebration of Africa’s first world cup.

The project involves 13 African writers visiting 12 cities across the continent and one in Brazil for two weeks during the World Cup. At the end of the project, each writer will produce a book of non-fiction travel literature based on their experiences, forming a series to be published next year.

The Writers
The writers and cities involved in the project are Funmi Iyanda (Durban), Alain Mabanckou (Lagos), Abdourahman A. Waberi (Salvador, Bahia), Akenji Ndumu (Abidjan), Doreen Baingana (Hargeisa), Chris Abani (Johannesburg), Uzodinma Iweala (Timbuktu), Billy Kahora (Luanda), Kojo Laing (Cape Town), Binyavanga Wainaina (Touba), Yvonne Owuor (Kinshasha), Victor Lavelle (Kampala), Nicole Turner (Nairobi) and Nimco Mahmud Hassan (Khartoum).

Alain Mabanckou in Lagos
Alain Mabanckou from Congo-Brazzaville is considered one of the most talented writers in Francophone African literature today. His most notable works are Verre Casse (Broken Glass), Bleu-Blanc-Rouge (Blue-White-Red) and The African Pyscho. His work, Memoirs of a Porcupine, won the Prix Renaudot, one of the highest distinctions in Francophone literature.

Alain visits Lagos from the 25th of June to 2nd of July 2010, during which time he will crisscross the city, from the ‘highbrow’ to the ‘slum’. Each day of his stay will alternate stops at football viewing centres, local bukkas and beer parlours, upmarket bars and relevant cultural events, and will include interviews with local denizens, artists, writers and other social commentators. Alain will be guided around the city by architect, writer and publisher, Ayodele Arigbabu, who will also blog about their daily experiences on the Pilgrimages website.

The Website
A dynamic and state-of-the art multimedia website has been launched as part of the Pilgrimages project, at www.pilgrimages.org.za. During the 13 Pilgrimages the writers and their local guides will blog on the website. Correspondents, artists and photographers in each city will also post topical content on the site.

The Books
The Pilgrimages Project will culminate in the launch of twelve books in four African cities in January 2012 during the African Nations’ Cup. The collection promises to be the most significant, single addition to the continent’s archive of literary knowledge since the African Writers’ Series of the 1960s. The books will be published by Kachifo Limited in Nigeria, Kwani? Trust in Kenya, Chimurenga in South Africa and a francophone publisher to be announced.

For more information on the Pilgrimages Project, please visit the website: http://www.pilgrimages.org.za

For more information on Pilgrimages and Alain Mabanckou in Lagos, please email info@kachifo.com
rayosword@gmail.com or call 07084344856

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On Slavery Museums

Slavery in the world was an absolute evil, and its transatlantic brand has become one of the most visible and contemporary pointers to its gruesome reality. Many things have crossed my mind since I wrote the article for the Nigerian newspaper NEXT on my experience at Badagry examining the slave relics and the role of African (nay, Nigerian) families in the propagation of the trade. One of the pressing ones was whether it was right or moral or fair that descendants of the slave traders were the owners of the many private museums now at Badagry housing the original relics of the horrible time. Unfortunately it is not a slam-dunk open and shut case.

On the one hand is the right of any citizen to make money off of anything as long as it doesn’t pose any harm to the other person. On the other hand is the tug of annoyance in our heads when we realize that every time we pay money to gain access into the private museums, we continue to fund the machinery that once profited at the expense of millions of helpless lives. Then there is the added complexity we find in the need for information from whatever source. The slave trade is a historical fact, and there is so much that needs to be told about it. Generations after us will retain the same level of curiosity as us, if not more, and would ask questions. And who best to answer them than the true descendants of the slavers who know either from word of mouth or from family treasures of relics exactly what went on at the time and the role their families played.

In a normal working society though, one would expect that those artifacts would be in custody of a working government, with sufficient documents and audio-visual materials there detailing all that needs to be told about the period, and the proceeds going to take care of the citizens. Will this, if implemented, violate some principle of “free market” and private ownerships? Maybe. But when descendants of slavers still profit from the trade this indirectly, it rubs the nose of the society in the indignity, and it elevates evil one some level. The Mobee “royal family” of Badagry are an elite family already there. I don’t assume that they need any more of the dirty money that must come from tourists all over the world wanting to know about slavery. How do they even deal with the shame it must bring to ask people to bring their money to see what your ancestors used to enslave others? Have they thought about it, or don’t they care about what their lineage represent in history? I imagine a private concentration camp in Germany – if there was one – being run today by descendants of the racist anti-semitic people and profiting from it, whether or not their descendants still retain the same level of hate for the descendants of the victims. Or descendants of John Wilkes Booth being the ones in charge of the Lincoln Presidenial Museum earning money by showing off a few of the killer’s tools to the world. Something is definitely wrong there.

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My Gmail This Morning

Click on the image to enlarge. Not funny.

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On Written English

Prompted by my sister’s observation on reading Larry King’s My Remarkable Journey. “The language is remarkably simple,” she said. The fact is that we have been so used to the literary culture that passes off grandiose English as the only true means of good literary communication that when we see one that pulls off a feat of enchanting us without pretending to be grand, we are pleasantly surprised and are forced to look at ourselves again.

How the literary culture in Nigeria (as borrowed from Britain) successfully evolved into the idea that it is better and more acceptable to write (and speak) as difficult possible when given the opportunity is really beyond me. And for all who bother about it, this is the singular most (de)pressing issue in Nigerian literature today. Not just the language of our writing – which will remain English for a long while – but the way we use it. The argument is long and tedious, and will – if not properly articulated – spill over into very many distracting directions, but what is clear is that we still haven’t mastered the ability to simply write, simply.

My favourite essay of all time is by George Orwell, titled Politics and the English Language(1946), and I’ve always recommended it for anyone wishing to be called a writer. In it, he highlights the very many wrong ways in which we use the English language a famous one being the rendering of a verse in Ecclesiastes in “modern” English. According to him, and I agree, this verse…

I returned and saw under the sun, that the race is not to the swift, nor the battle to the strong, neither yet bread to the wise, nor yet riches to men of understanding, nor yet favour to men of skill; but time and chance happeneth to them all.

would most likely be written by today’s writers as follows:

Objective considerations of contemporary phenomena compel the conclusion that success or failure in competitive activities exhibits no tendency to be commensurate with innate capacity, but that a considerable element of the unpredictable must invariably be taken into account.

He admits in the end, as I do now, that he too may have occasionally fallen into the temptation to use more words than necessary in order to sound grand, or just for the drought of ideas. Yet, it is inexcusable. There is a reason why I was able to complete Larry King’s book in two days and I’m yet to complete one by a Nigerian writer since more than a year ago, and it doesn’t have to do with their personalties, a glossy cover or their countries of origin. And it is the same reason why V.S. Naipaul is now one of my favourite Nobel Prize winners. There is just something enchanting about a simply but brilliantly-written work.

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Q & A

Q: What really have you been up to?

A: Many of them are really personal, family stuff. I have also taken steps to properly “graduate” from the University. This includes a very long and tedious process of undergoing “clearance” from almost every section of the University – Sports, Alumni etc. Yesterday, I got my certificate, but discovered that my name was written with an extra “N” in a wrong place, again. Sigh.

I’ve also been watching Michael Moore. Two days ago, it was Capitalism, a Love Story, a really enlightening documentary. Yesterday, it was “Bowling for Columbine.” I’m not done with that yet. When I am, I’ll be onto “Sicko”. Michael Moore is one of my favourite film makers. He is an inspiration, and I like the way he takes on issues. If I ever make movies someday, I’ll be borrowing so much of his ideas. The very moving last scene of Capitalism, a Love Story has him drawing a “Crime Scene – Do not Cross” tape around Wall Street. Then he made a bullhorn announcement for all the CEOs to come down and voluntarily arrested for defrauding the nation. I recommend the movie to everyone.

Q: Who is your next favourite team in the World Cup since the exit of the Nigerian Super Eagles?

A: I support the USA (of course) and Ghana. The US because they have not been known as a football-playing nation (I know they call it “soccer”), yet they have been spectacular in the tournament. I hope they go far. Maybe it will reduce some of the craze for American Football :) . I support Ghana because they have also been quite spectacular, and of course since they’re the only African team left in the competition. But here is my dilemma: Ghana will be playing with the United States in their next match, and one of them must be knocked out. I will have my fingers crossed for that one.

Q: So when are you coming to a city near me, as you promised?

A: Soon. One other new discovery I’ve made is that it is more costly, and tedious to move around the country without a private helicopter or a travel grant. Still, the plan is on course, very much. Are there particular places in Nigeria that you’d like me to visit? And why?

Q: Where will you be this weekend?

A: Maybe at the Bookjam event in Lagos. Will you be there?

See you guys around.

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Oh Shoes!

I do love my shoes. I wish I could simply say “I love shoes”, but that would mean competing with at least  two people in my life that I know too well. (Stop looking around Yemi). I don’t love shoes that much, but the few ones I have, I love them very much, and would do anything to keep them looking good. Well, not everything really, but if they get good polishing and get prevented from submerging in mud, I would be grateful indeed. And there lies the problem. It is raining season here in much of Nigeria and the consequence of that is plenty street puddles after every rain. It doesn’t help having to ride on bikes around town. No matter how shiny the shoe is in the morning, by evening, it is dusty when there is no rain and muddy when there is.

There was this joke about a guy who met someone who wouldn’t stop showing off his new wristwatch. The wristwatch guy comes in with all confidence looking at his watch once every two seconds, pretending to be pressed for time. “I’m in a hurry,” he said, “Do you know the way to…” let’s call it… “Miguel Street? I have to be there in less than ten minutes.” The other guy who had also just got a new shoe stretched forth his leg and tried to describe the way to the former’s destination. “You want to go to Miguel Street? Just go forward like this,” he said, pointing with his feet, “and then turn right, and left, and right again…” I have sometimes felt like the other guy. ”Oh Kola, you look so tall,” people would say, and I’d respond in the now typical way, “Oh no, it’s the shoes I’m wearing.” They would look down at them, then at me, shake their heads, “No way man”, smile and go their way. It works only when my shoes are shiny and well polished. Otherwise, I am the one who is left feeling silly.

There is another joke I always remembered. It goes like this, that women remember the shape, colour, and size of a man’s shoes on a first date than anything else. Why? Because whenever they avoid eye contact, their eyes would inevitably rest on the man’s foot. I have never dared to keep my shoes unpolished since I first heard the quasi-sexist joke. I may wear a shirt not well ironed, or a pair of jeans that I’ve worn for a few days already, but my shoes will always be polished. Yesterday, things changed. Badly.

My polish can was nowhere to be found and I had to get out of the house on time, so I planned to meet with my reliable cobbler right in front of the University gate to do what he always did. But by the time I got there and he wasn’t there. In his place were a dozen law enforcement agencies clearing his and other shops illegally erected along the fence of the shopping complex opposite the University. Whether they had given advance warning of the raid to those shop owners or not is not the question here, but that my favourite cobbler was nowhere to be found, and his stall had been levelled and removed. And my shoe has remain muddied, or at best ugly ever since. I’ve not been able to retort to the now many people asking “Oh Kola, you have grown taller since I last saw you.”  Yeah right. It must be all the pizza I’ve been eating. It’s two days now without a shoe polish, and I’m about to lose it.

Okay, I’ll buy a new Kiwi polish tonight, but why should I take the fall for the state government’s late discovery of how best to make the city beautiful? No, they don’t get my sympathy now for finally waking up to their duties to clear the fence of the shopping complex of its many illegal squatters after all this years. I’m not asking for much. All I want is my cobbler back in his famous spot. Yes, the government’s action might be in the public service, I know. I would just love to say, ”public service my foot!” if only for once, although I know that that the pun might get lost in the translation. :)

Caveat: This post should not be taken too seriously. The government policy to clean up the Shopping Complex at Agbowo is a very laudable project. You need to see how nice the place looks now.

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Conversations

Ivor: Do you feel that current Nigerian politics has influenced your writing? And if so to what extent?

KT: No, but that is as far as my deliberate rebellion will allow, and I have tried as much as possible to fuse much of my own outlook in the speech of the characters I create. I cannot control the unconscious however. If I’m a writer at all, I’m one because of my upbringing and influences all tainted with patches of Nigerian history and my own upbringing in the many cultures that I’ve interacted with. The rest are my own questing polemics. In essence, I don’t write so as to be patriotic except to defy and to question, but mostly to locate the common humanity in my characters as well as in those who read and connect with them. I like the simple, small, family things, not the grand “national” political ones, and I’ve dedicated myself to exploring the small ones. I’ve discovered that they’re often even more fun than big politics. And as a writer, you get the liberty of imagination. Politics is more restricting. In that, Marachera was right. But overall, we are still a sum of our individual experiences, and are conditioned by our environments whether we like it or not.

Read my full conversation with Ivor Hartmann on new writing in Africa on the Sentinel Blog. Ivor is the writer and publisher from Zimbabwe, now living in “economic exile” in South Africa.

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BookJam At Silverbird

“The BookJam @ Silverbird” is a monthly event that consists of book readings, discussions, musical performances, poetry recitals, book signings and a raffle draw.

The BookJam is hosted by A. Igoni Barrett and the Silverbird Lifestyle store.

The 5th edition of “The BookJam @ Silverbird” will hold between 3 to 5 pm on Saturday 26 June, 2010 at the Silverbird Lifestyle store, Silverbird Galleria, Victoria Island, Lagos.

The guest writers are:

  • Toni Kan Onwordi, author of Nights of the Creaking Bed;
  • Abraham Oshoko, author of June 12: The Struggle for Power in Nigeria;
  • Kunle Ajibade, author of Jailed for Life: A Reporter’s Prison Notes.

Admission to the BookJam is free. Members of the audience who purchase books during the event stand a chance to win a special prize in a raffle draw.

For more information send an email to auggustmedia@gmail.com.

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