ktravula – a travelogue!

reflections on the world

Browsing ktravula – a travelogue! blog archives for August, 2009.

First Malaria

I have been struck by malaria, finally.

One of the first pieces of advice Francis gave me weeks before my travel was that I should for prepare for a strong attack of malaria in my first weeks of arrival in the United States. I didn’t take him seriously at first because I had grown up believing that malaria was a mostly tropical disease. His logic was that in the first weeks of landing in the States, when the African body is just begining to adjust to the weather and nutrition condition of the host country, one’s immune system is generally very low and malaria usually comes out then from within the recess of the blood with a brutal attack almost certain to knock one down. Well, he should know. He has come to Edwardsville once every year now for more than six years as much as I know. He also advised me to bring along all my malaria medication, and be prepared to use them as soon as I notice the first symptoms. It was a good thing that I listened then, and followed his advice. He was right. Now after a couple of days in denial, I recognize these symptoms I have for what they truly are: malaria, finally.

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It always starts with a mild fever, then rising temperature, then cold and shivering which is a third confirmatory stage. I have experienced those stages and I’m convinced that it is not just a sign of stress. As I type this, I am taking time off to swallow a horde of anti-malaria tablets to specification after this meal of warm roasted chicken. Where is that warm bosom to lay my wearied head? Where are those arms to pet me to sleep. Where are the hugs? Where are the kisses? Where is the cool soothing towel to keep my temperature down. There’s no one here to pamper me. I am alone in my mandatory distress, so I stretch my legs and get under the duvet. Let the pillows be my comfort. Let their soft charming hold warm me up, cool me down, set me free into restful sleep. The air conditioning must also sleep tonight. I am cold enough. This is a mandatory rite of passage, and malaria must die. In just a few days of battle, it should all be over. Fansidar, Artesunat, Paracetamol, here is a chance for you to prove yourself on an alien soil. There are no more mosquitoes here to move and recycle my blood. You have no excuses. There is only this strange erratic weather which we must now adapt to, must now conquer together especially before the winter cold descends. This is war!

And still, I must attend that excursion to Six Flags St. Louis tomorrow. I will not miss the Ferris Wheel and the breathtaking Roller Coaster rides for the world. First I will need to get off the computer, and rest. Tomorrow is tomorrow, one last fun weekend before the real work begins.

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Today, I Rode to Campus

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One of the most commonplace features on this campus is the sign for the disabled. Every part of the campus is made acessible for both able-bodied people, and the disabled ones. There are braille signs under every office number, and there are parking spaces reserved only for the disabled. Able-bodied people who park in those places are open to monetary penalties. The big bus that traverses the campus length and breath has a particular section for the weak and elderly. Everyone who sits there must yield their seats when such people get on the bus. There are also automatic door openers meant to help people on wheel chairs to open every door they may want to pass through. By pressing the switch, the door opens about six feet before the person gets there.

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The other prominent and memorable feature of this campus, nay, of this town, are dedicated bicycle and jugging tracks that run through the woods. These tracks are to this town what railway lines are to Ibadan. They are routes specifically constructed for bike riders and runners, and it runs through town without interferring with the passage of cars. The planners of this town are a meticulous people. At points where these bike tracks intersect with the motor roads, the motor roads fly over the tracks, or, shall we say, the tracks go under it. Therefore, if I were to ride a bicycle from here in Cougar Village to St. Louis, I would see any cars on the way until I reach an motor bridge intersection where I would be able to decide whether to come up or keep going. It is beautiful.

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So today I rode to campus on my new bicycle. To say the least, it was a liberating experience having the wind blow by me as I pedalled and stretched all the sleeping muscles of my African thigh to their limit. It was a first time after many years. One never really forgets how to ride a bike, does one? By the time I got to campus about ten minutes later, I felt all the stretch my aching muscles and bones, and I thanked providence for the chance. It was one hell of a ride. On getting to Peck Hall, I saw the Cougar Village shuttle bus offloading its passengers and I waved at the woman driver. She waved back, and smiled. Yes, I would no longer be riding the bus anymore. Not all the time now, anyway, and it feels good. Tomorrow, I go to Six Flags, Missouri, on a campus excursion.

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Thinking of Home

I sit here in my new office, scrolling through the syllabus for my Fall Semester class that begins on Monday. This is the same syllabus that has been used by every professor of this subject before me, even though every new teacher gets to modify it to fit their own taste. As I look through its very few pages trying to adapt it to myself while adapting myself to it, I remember home.

In Nigeria today, the Academic Staff Union of Universities (and I hear of Polytechnics too) are on an indefinite industrial strike to petition the government on a variety of matters bordering on increasing the standard of University (and Polytechnic) education in the country. They have been been on strike since June this year and would not resume, or attend to students, until the Government responds to them. And from the look of things, the government doesn’t seem to give a hoot. Nigeria is still in darkness, the same perennial state of recurring despair that has produced nothing but hopelessness, idleness, restiveness, violence, and an alarming brain drain. Nothing has changed.

In 2003 as an undergraduate in Ibadan, as head of a student group of campus journalists, I had created an online petition meant to harry the Federal Government and the leadership of the Academic Staff Union of Universities to find a middle ground, and resolve their differences in the interest of students whose brains are being allowed to shrivel up from idleness. It turned out in the end that keeping us idle was part of a masterplan to disenfranchise University students in the general election, and in turn use them for the dirty jobs of violence. I had written a very angry open letter in the dailies to poke at the conscience of the leaders. In the end, nothing came out of it. The strike drew out for as long as nine months before we were called back to school. If I had thought about it for a second time, I should have known that writing never solved any problem. The wicked people in the high places didn’t care about what we thought, and a dark empty place perhaps filled with beer farts, tobacco and ugly smut now exists where their conscience used to be.

Now as I sit here alone in serenity, in a place where things go according to order, according to sanity, according to the highest sense of responsibility, I think of home. I think of the enormous waste that must be taking place right now in homes and on the street. How many lives must be seeping out of relevance all over Nigeria’s mamoth population because of the insensitivity of its leaders who can now no longer be pricked with either conscience or common sense. I feel lonely, not from absence, but from despair. I can not change the world. I can only change myself. And most times, it is never enough to prevent the triumph of evil.

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Office Hours

“Please don’t wake me while I’m working!”

The sign on the office door of Belinda, the chair of the Foreign Languages Department.

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God Bless America!

Edwardsville

Today is a beautiful day of many surprises. I’m still reeling from the exhilaration of the very distinguishing welcome, and I don’t know where to begin. It is not up to twenty-four hours ago when I talked about the generousity of my hosts, and now, with both hands full and head spinning as if in the clouds, I realize how blessed I am, and how blessed in return my hosts must be – for it holds true every time that givers never lack. Today was a welcome event for international scholars/students.

Lunch at Faculty

Here’s how it all started. I had woken up iin the morning feeling all dull and lethargic, and I didn’t feel like going out. I looked at my blog and found that I had made only one reflective post on the 19th. I thought of making some more posts on America’s awkward signs, London from above, the taste of strawberry, but I got lazy and played around the internet instead. Then I got an email from my secondary supervisor here, who is Nigerian, and he arranged for me to come over to school to meet up with him. Reluctantly, I got up and did so, and we went over a few of the things I needed to know as a faculty member. I went from there to my department (of Foreign Languages) and was hijacked by the Chair, Belinda, who invited me to lunch with other new and old members of the faculty. They were from Spain, McGraw Hill (the publishers), Germany, Mexico, France, and Nigeria (Me). It was a good lunch. I had to teach everyone how to correctly pronounce my name.

New Family

In the evening, Reham and I attended the International Welcome for foreign students/scholars where we were treated to a very large banqet. It was organised by the Internation Hospitality Programme people: the guys that gave me that spectacular fruity choclatey welcome. Along with plenty to eat, there was also plenty to take away. There was a hospitality stand where students could get cutleries, beddings, electronics and plenty many other things to take home, all for free. The most unique part of the evening was where students got to sign up with host familes for “adoption”. As a foreign student/scholar, your host family would be responsible for making you birthday cakes, taking you out to occasional dinners, calling you when you’re sick, and generally doing things your parents might do if they were here. It is a very responsible programme, and Sai says he was moved almost to tears by how caring these adoptive parents could be, and how seriously they took their “parenting” jobs. My adopted parents now include an Indian father and an American mother.

New Friends

My second family has an African-American parent, both already almost of grandparenting age. Very nice. They’ve asked me for what I need, and I told them I’d make a list when I can. I can’t think of anything right now. I have their home addresses, and I will be visiting them soon, on my new bike. Yea, I finally got a bike, and in less than fourty-eight hours after I put it in my notes to self. Well, let me tell you about how I got it, but not before this report. Sometimes during this evening’s programme, our names were drawn in a lottery, and twelve lucky people out of about three hundred of us were picked out randomly to be given gifts. I was the second draw, and I was presented with a bag of even more stationeries: jotters, pens and pencils, and a branded SIUE t-shirt. Now what were the chances that I would make that list of twelve out of that large number? I was never a lucky person when it came to odds, and yet there I was with a bag of free gifts. Then came Papa Rudy.

Rudy Wilson

I first met Rudy Wilson in Ibadan in 2003 while I was an undergraduate of Linguistics. He was one of a team of University professors on an exchange programme from Southern Illinois University, Edwardsville to the University of Ibadan. He was in company of Ron Schaefer, Matt Emerson, Eugene Redmond and a few other scholars from SIUE working with the likes of Remi Raji, Francis Egbokhare, Samuel Asein (who ironically died here in Edwardsville a few years later). I was just a bloody undergraduate then, but I remembered him. We had some very nice time in Ibadan at the time, especially during a get-together celebration we had then for the then newly crowned Professor in Ibadan, Francis Egbokhare, who was at the time Ibadan’s youngest professor.

Rudy to the right
The programme featured poetry readings, small talk and food. I remembered Rudy as one of the hip, mischievous, but lively members of the SIUE crew, and his name stuck in my mind for a long time. I met him again today on the floor of the basketball court where the event took place. He didn’t remember me, but I reminded him of those times we had. We were taken to each other instantly, and we exchanged addresses. We talked a lot about some old stuff, and he told me lives in Edwardsville. I said I would come check him out when I got my bike, and that was when it came:

“I do have a bike I could give you.” He said.
“Really?” I asked, surprised.
“Yea. It’s pretty new. I haven’t used it a lot, but it’s just sitting at home idle.”

My new bike, with helmet.

“That would be nice.” I said. “I would appreciate it. I have been meaning to get a very cheap one when my paycheck comes in.”
“No, don’t worry. I’ll give it to you. Do you want to come for it this evening, or tomorrow?”
“Today will be nice. I can ride it home from your house, if you don’t mind.”
“No, I’ll give it to you, and then drop you off back at Cougar Village. I won’t want something to happen to you on your first night in town. After all it’s getting dark. Can you ride a bike?”
“Of course I can ride one.”
“But you have to ride it with a helmet always.” He said.

I should have told him “It’s like sex: one never really forgets the techniques,” because later on the way to his beautiful house in town where I met his nice, beautiful wife and pets, and back to my apartment where my nice bike now rests, I found out the more how much of a nice, brilliant, mischievous and utterly down-to-earth person he is. If he had known that I would be coming, he said, he would have arranged that I stayed with him in Edwardsville rather than the Cougar Village apartment that I now have, and pay for. I explained to him my preference for the Cougar accomodation.

Kola, Nikola!

It would give me some insight into the students life here, and I would need that experience. Rudy also happened to be a very avid collector of art items, which was a good thing, since I had one of my Nigerian artworks with me to give him as a present in return. It was both our lucky day, but mostly for me it was super superb. And to top it all up, I finally met someone taller than me during the evening event. Yippie! Well, it’s not so surprising considering that the program was held on a basketball court. He is a student, who also plays basketball. His name – if you can imagine – is Nikola, but he’s from Serbia. Kola and Nikola. Hmm.

Over all, it was a fantastic evening, even luckier for me, and hopefully for Rudy and my new host families. Now I know why the folks at home think I might not want to return!

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Blessed are the Givers

Since I arrived here on campus, every office I have entered had something for me.

The International Hospitality Programme stuffed my refrigerator with all I can eat, left me with a basket of fruits with my name on it, laid my bed, and left me with bedding and plenty cutleries. At the international office, we were given two bags courtesy of The Institute of International Education. According to Geet, the director, we could come back for as many more as we wanted, especially if we wanted to send them home as gifts. Fulbright gave me a t-shirt. My host at the Foreign Languages Department here opened the door of their store to us, and asked us to feel free to help ourselves with their branded bags and pens whenever we needed them. The number of branded pens and pencils that I have received in the past three days are now officially uncountable. I will need to send some back home. Or give them as gifts to people – perhaps to my dedicated blog readers.

Yesterday at the bank, just for opening a bank account, I got a dozen pens and one branded T-shirt. Well, if you were an American businessman, this would make sense to you. The bank’s name is written boldly on it, so it turns out to be another form of marketing. This is a sharp contrast to what I have experienced back home. In Nigeria today, it will be hard to get a branded T-shirt which is not sold for more than $2. Not even the one bearing the name of your own bank. Go figure that out, Nigeria.

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Signs

Signs are a conspicuous presence everywhere you turn in the United States. Whether they be stop signs, warning signs or advertisement signs, there is always something to guide you on the way. Here are a collection of pictures taken of signs, from Providence through Boston, St. Louis and Edwardsville.

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Notes to Self

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#1. There is nothing sinister about the fact that there was power outage, and a serious fire outbreak in house #529 of Cougar Village, on the same day of your arrival in house #431. Cast the superstitious devil out of your dirty mind, all your friends’.

#2. Stop worrying about the absence of bones in the American fried chickens. See, you’re no more in Nigeria, and there’s nothing wrong in eating a boneless fried chicken. Seek calcium from some other sources. By some miracle of cooking, Americans have long devised their way to prepare their fried chicken without its bones. Their dogs must eat something, after all.

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#3. There must be a special reason why this post, and this one, are the most read on this blog. Your Nigerian readers must be fascinated by the fact that their biggest assumptions could as well be wrong. But why did they not read much of this one? Could it be that they care much less about foreign food, considering that they have become insular in their culinary preferences?

#4. Do your winter shopping for hats, gloves, boots, mufflers, shawls and overcoats latest by the middle of September. You don’t want to have your toes fall off when it gets as cold as the inside of a Fan Ice freezer. Prepare a good part of your savings for buying hot Starbucks coffee. Don’t forget to buy some ogogoro as well. Nothing is too small to fight against the midwestern cold when it comes. Don’t leave anything to chance.

Geese

#5. You are a teacher here, and not a student like everybody else. Hold yourself high. Be disciplined. Put all your enthusiasm to work, and you just might pull this off nicely. All you have is this one year to make a good first impression. It’s just like the NYSC. You survived that one, right? And in that particular case, it was in a mixed secondary boarding school without internet, cafeteria, school bus, to-borrow bookstores, warm bath, pretty lake and an attractive stipend, situated in the middle of nowhere, and where students spoke a combination of Hausa, Berom and crooked pidgin slang.

#6. Buy a bicycle, preferably not at Wal-mart. Buy a basketball. Like many people say, don’t waste your talent. See if you can make a college career in basketball, if only for the fun feeling you get from the company of other players. Put your height to advantage, but don’t beat them too much. They might get jealous.

#7. Stop expecting your roommate to know who Halle Berry is when you tell him about the movie “Monster’s Ball”. He is an undergraduate of Pharmacy, not Theatre. And he’s from Illinois, not California. After all, not all Nigerians know who Fathia Balogun or Lola Idije are.

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#8. Deal with time zones already. When you were in Providence, you were five hours away from home. Now at Edwardsville, it is a six hours gap, and you may not call home thinking you still exist in the same longitude.

#9. Get used to seeing women drive the buses that take you to and from campus everyday. You are no longer in Nigeria.

#10. Enjoy yourself. Visit that lake more often. Go to town more often. Take long walks. Ride around town. Ride to St. Louis. Get lost, wander around, and find your way back when it’s dark, with sweat marks on your brow and a very exhilarating feeling in your belly. Visit Boston again, this time not just the airport. Visit New York, Broadway. Take pictures at the National Mall when you’re in Washington DC in December. And at the Lincoln Memorial. Fall in love. Tease. Rock the silent woods in your own little way, and let it fill you with its bubbling life. You are in the United States of America.

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