ktravula – a travelogue!

reflections on the world

Browsing ktravula – a travelogue! blog archives for the day Tuesday, August 18th, 2009.

Edwardsville

Here are a few first photos I took here at Edwardsville. Enjoy.

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You Nigerians Are Everywhere

Even though many of the students I’ve spoken to did not know where Nigeria is on the map, many of the older ones did, especially the academics. That provides some occasional comfort, especially when the Nigerian person they knew was one of the well-behaved ones.

I met a Ugandan during the first orientation at Brown University who asked Omar and myself. “What have you Nigerians done? You guys are everywhere. Anytime I get into an argument involving politics with anyone here, especially in public. The first question they always ask is ‘Are you from Nigeria?’”

Yesterday, I met a new student who is from Benin Republic but whose parents were migrants from Nigeria. My first seatmate on the plane from Nigeria to London was a Nigerian girl from Delta state who is studying in a University in Boston. On my way into campus cafeteria today, I met a young American student who says his room mate is Bolaji from – you guessed it – Nigeria. That’s not all. Tola, who was last year’s Yoruba FLTA to SIUE is also back on this campus to begin her Master’s degree programme.

And today, while walking around the Foreign languages department with the Palestinian Professor Tomari of the History department, checking into my new office and meeting the staff of the department, he asked me if I knew a Nigerian by the name Nwakama. I said “Obi Nwakama?”, and he said “Yes, that’s him.”

“I do actually,” I said, “but I’ve never met him.”
Obi Nwakama is one of the names I’ve heard over and over again within Nigeria’s literary circles.
“He lives in St. Louis,” he said. “We almost always talk politics. I like him because he’s sympathetic to the Palestinian cause.”
“I didn’t know that. I always thought he was in Nigeria.”
“Maybe one of these days, I hope we can take a trip down there together.”
“That would be nice. I think Eugene Redmond lives there too. Do you know him?”
“Yes.” he replied. “He used to teach on this campus. But now he’s retired.”
“Yea”.
I first met Professor Redmond in Ibadan in 2004 when he came to promote Drumvoices Revue, a periodic anthology of poems. I met him again a few years after then, only to hear that he had stopped being on the staff of SIUe.

Of course I’d like to go to St. Louis again – the land of Miles Davies the legendary trumpeter.

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I Could Be Jewish, You Know!

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If you have been reading this blog from the beginning, you would notice that I’ve taken height as my most defining feature in America, and not the colour of my skin. That should be strange to hear for those who expect that I would have spent only a few hours before complaining that someone called me monkey or asked me to show them my tail. Sorry to disappoint you so far. Maybe if I had been posted to a Texas countryside I might have more juicy things to tell. But even then, something in me tells me that we see things only as we are, and not as they are. Racism will not find me here. Finito.

However, I do want to share some interesting thoughts of mine, and a few instances that has made me reconsider American racism and my reaction to it.

On Sunday while at the Inn at Providence when the good woman at the desk called the Cadillac driver to please speed down to pick me up to the airport, I confess now to having assumed that the driver of the Cadillac was a black man. I feel terribly ashamed to admit this, but I did. And when she called me up from my laptop five minutes later to tell me that he was here, and I saw him, the “oh!” that instantly escaped my throat was not just to wonder at the speed with which he had arrived, but to recognize my own wrong and shameful racial profiling. I mean, how could I?

Now yesterday afternoon, I had a somewhat shocking but enlightening experience. While sitting peacefully in the campus computer lab, checking my emails in relative anonymity, a beautiful African American woman who was two seats away from me had logged out of her computer, and was checking out my African jacket.
“What do you call that?” She asked.
“This is called Aso Oke,” I replied. “It’s a special kind of fabric.”
“Are you from Africa?” She asked again, and I took my face off the computer screen to look at her.
“Yes.” I replied. “I’m from Nigeria.”
“I ask because I’ve been doing some studies on the original Hebrew tribes, and their dispersal. I know that the high priests of those times wore some special clothes to distinguish them from the other Israelites.”
“Really? That’s nice.” I said, since I didn’t know where she was going with it.
“Do you know that the original Israelites were black?”
I didn’t know that, even though I have heard some conspiracy theories, and I said so.
“They were black,” she continued, “And when Israel was invaded by the Romans in the …th Century, the true original Israelites were dispersed to parts of West Africa where they all settled and formed a new country. They took with them their fabrics, and that’s probably why you have these kinds of fabric in Nigeria, Ghana, Congo and many other African countries today.”

Jew me

Jew me

She let that sink in, and she continued. Even before she did so, I was already trying to make the connection between the famous Yoruba’s Oduduwa/Oranmiyan myth and how it relates with the Hebrew story. Oduduwa was said to have come from “the East”/Mecca, and that could as well have been Israel. The staff of Oranmiyan in Ile Ife till today still has on it letters of Hebrew that spells “Oranmiyan”.
“Are you familiar with the story of Noah’s sons?” she asked.
“Yes, a little,” I replied. “Shem, Ham and Japheth?”
“Yea.” She said. We were initially thought to have descended from Ham. Now I’m discovering evidence to prove that it is not true.”
“Really?” I said, now giving her my full attention. I could always browse later.
“In those days, being white was a disease. It was from Leprosy, and whoever was afflicted was cast out of the society. The normal people were the black, and the white were the diseased. We don’t hear much about this today because the world has been whitewashed and the truth has been suppressed. And the truth is that we were the original chosen tribes, and the white-skinned people were the cursed, forbidden ones.”

This was something I totally disagree with, for many scientific and logical reasons. As convincing as the argument sounded at the begining, I found that she had deviated much, and was now trying to take me into a deep place I didn’t want to go. Moreso, nothing she said could explain melanin and the influence of weather on skin colouring. I chose not to ask her these since I now really wanted her to be done, and gone. She didn’t look like someone ready to drop her convictions. And as I looked around the open-ended computer room to find that we were the only person in there. I felt uncomfortable, especially as she had now began to lower her voice when another student came in and took position in the corner nearest to the door. That one was a Caucasian.

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“I’ve been researching this for about nine months,” she continued “And I have discovered so many interesting truths about us as a race, and about how the white man has tried for centuries to subdue us with slavery, colonialism and whitewashing. I’ve also been learning from those who have been studying this for many years.”

“Are you a student of History?” I asked.
“No, but I take very strong interest in it. I spoke to God to show me why we are so hated in the world today, and he is taking me through all of this to show them to me.” She replied. “My research is based on Historic, Archeological and Biblical findings.”
“That’s very interesting,” I said. “Thank you for sharing this with me.”
“You’re welcome.” She said, as she stood up to go. “Who knows, you may be an African Hebrew.”
I laughed. Then stopped. “Who knows?” I replied. “It’s nice meeting you.”
“Same here.” She said, and left.

When I think about it, the only problem that I can see from becoming an African Jew is that I would now be open to attack from two rather than one angle. I mean, the Jews already have their own problems in the world, right? And so do the Africans. Why would I chose to double my jeopardy just for the sake of acquiring a new identity? No, I think I’ll stick with just being African for now. That’s enough. Walking back home as I passed by the beautiful scenery of the Cougar Lake, I thought about this and many more issues, and wondered aloud just how many more such self-discoveries await me in this land of the free.

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A Little About Cougar Village

A lit shed overlooking the Cougar LakeI now reside at Cougar Village, a student accommodation area a short walking distance from the main campus of SIUe.

It is a beautiful and restful students village with many identical apartments. I share a room with an undergraduate of Pharmacy who is also from Illinois.

I got lost earlier today while trying to locate my apartment. It was made worse by the rain of which I had been warned earlier in the day at www.weather.com. I had gone out in the morning to attend the International Students Orientation Programme organised by the International Students Services for dozens of international students to the University. Myself and Reham from Egypt were the only Fulbright FLTA scholars there. We had met earlier at Providence so it was just a happy reunion. For some strange reason, her flight did not land at the same time as mine so I hadn’t seen her since I left Providence in my Cadillac.

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Later in the evening, my roommate Chris gave me a ride back to campus so that I could get connected to the internet. I missed the campus bus from campus, and I decided to walk back. That turned out to be a very liberating experience, and I also got to take some really nice photos of the campus, especially the beautiful Cougar Lake. On my way to campus, I saw a nice deer grazing on the grass. According to Chris, it was so tame that one could go and stroke its head. Impressive. While at Providence, I had chanced on a few squirrels playing without any worries around we humans. I give America one thing: it respects its animals. Back home, the first reflex is always to find a weapon anytime you spot game. It is a cardinal sin to let one escape when the cooking cauldron awaits agape. Africans thrive on the murder/hunting of game. It is a thrilling endeavour. Because it’s fun? Because we’re hungry? Because they’re pests?

Now I have sufficient explanation for the speed with which the squirrels on my old campus in Ibadan flee in the opposite direction whenever I open my palms and call them to come and eat some nuts: their parents and great grand parents must have told them of our kind. “When you see those guys, run as fast as you can, or else you’ll end up in the cooking pot!”. And they always often do. That is why the squirrel in Edwardsville has a higher life expectancy than one in Ibadan.

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My Name Is…

I knew that sooner than later someone was going to write my name wrongly.

I was already used to being called “Caller” instead of “Kola” so I already gave up on the pronunciation part. But when it came to writing, I have tried my best to let everyone know that my surname was spelt with just one “n”. Everyone in Nigeria that is. For some reason I couldn’t fathom for a very long time, my Yoruba/Nigerian counterpart always spelt my surname as OLATUNBOSUN with that extra “n”, and it always set me on edge. Even when properly written, an overzealous receptionist in all my schooling in Nigeria was always going to add that “n” at that exact place, much to my chagrin.

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As I grew up, I learnt to live with that fact. When I opened my email address: kolatubosun AT yahoo.com, many of even my close friends sent my mails to kolatuNbosun AT yahoo.com and I never got them back. One day, the poor owner of that other address took pity on me and sent me many of the mails wrongly addressed to him. When I moved to Gmail, I moved to prevent any further losses by opening another address at kolatuNbosun AT gmail.com just to cater for all the misaddressed mails. It turned out to be good decision. As I joined Facebook, I came across the same situation, when many of those who should have known me better always claimed not to be able to locate me online because when they keyed in Kola OlatuNbosun, it didn’t bring them to my page. I apologised, and promptly registered a new one which is now dormant except for the acceptance of those occasional friendship requests.

I am thinking back on those times today because on looking closely at my name written on my fridge, basket of fruits and International Hospitality Program packet, I found that it was written, not as Kolawole OlatuNbosun this time, but as Kolawole OlatunbosuM. I really don’t mind, because this time, I know it is a typo.

I can’t win them all.

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